Gasket/pulling turbo etc questions 1990 SW20

Hey everyone,

I'm currently working on my engine and going down the path of checking/replacing things and putting in new gaskets. I do have some questions in terms of the most efficient way to get the gaskets I need. So...

1) can someone detail what's included in the Toyota engine overhaul gasket set? It appears the name might be slightly deceptive as it doesn't include 'every' gasket

2) My turbo is also the 7 stud turbine housing so I'm suspecting if I buy the gasket set for my car I'll get the 6 stud gasket, is this one ok to use? (From what I've read it seals fine but would like first hand experience to confirm)

3) Depending on the answer to question 1 it will dictate what else I will need. I did note supercheap auto had a 'full engine gasket set' sourced through Spanish brand Ajusa which from what I read is actually good quality. But again, do you think the supplier could actually give you a detailed list of what's included...no

The stage I'm at right now is:

a) removing the sump (an absolute PITA when RTV has formed a long term relationship with the block and isn't ready to let go) and re-doing with RTV (I know all about FIPG, Permatex black will be fine)

b) removing the turbo and replacing the exhaust manifold gasket and checking/replacing studs/nuts

c) replacing manifold to turbo gasket and turbo to down pipe gaskets and obviously oil/water gaskets. I'll also check down pipe studs and will replace nuts with new copper lock nuts

d) replacing oil cooler/housing O-rings

e) checking HFH and HFHOE hoses and replacing if need be

f) replacing AFM gasket (the rubber one)

g) replacing couple of intercooler hoses with silicone ones (they're basically all done except the funny shaped one from turbo to intercooler

h) replacing factory recirculating valve (I.e. BOV) O-ring

i) replacing throttle body gasket and both intake manifold gaskets

j) replacing rocker cover gaskets and the rubber/steel rocker cover bolt gaskets

k) obviously little rubber hoses etc that need doing I'll also do and inspecting parts as I go (I.e. AFM, idle control, TVIS). It's also getting a new 100amp alternator (as its electric power steering; if you're in the same boat ask me as these are basically non existent in Australia). I'll clean/paint things as I go along with heat wrapping down pipe/front pipe and putting on my Fujitsubo exhaust to replace my current system (I'll be making section with cat to go between front pipe and rear section)

l) I'll likely be removing the driver side CV joint/shaft for access and checking the seal while I'm there

m) as I've delved so deep I will try remove timing covers and check cam seals and timing belt condition (to go further with that with the engine in the car would be very difficult I feel)

Any thoughts/advice and recommendations in terms of parts ordering would be much appreciated. I'm bouncing between Amayama, supercheap, prime, fastener shop websites to figure out the best way of doing it.

I'm sure someone has done what I'm doing and could give my good advice.

Thanks!

Given the extent of what you are planning you might be better of just taking the engine out and doing all the work with a lot easier access right round the engine, you will be able to have a proper look at everything that you wouldnt otherwise see. Event go so far as to take a look at the timing belt, tensioner etc, very easy to inspect and change with the engine out
 
Have a good study of the diagrams and make sure you get the right bits for your genI/II, as the genIII has a lot of different bits. I get most things from Amayama and I have found WTFAuto in WA to be cheaper than anywhere else for some items. You will be able to get a proper 7 bolt gasket for your turbo, they are not cheap though.

It isn't all that difficult to lower engine down under the car and work on it there without having to raise the chassis to drag it out. Gives good access to everything and if covered with cloth it won't get gravel in it from above.
Definitely new HFH. and HFHOE. Take a real close look at the steel hardlines in that area as they can be in pretty bad condition and choked with corrosion. They allow the oil cooler to be efficient OR NOT.
Be careful of water pumps with pressed steel impellors. Original Aisin pumps have cast metal foil shaped blades on their impellors. I suspect for a very good reason.
If you are still on the genuine ECU. be wary of a colder thermostat. Genuine Toyota is very reliable and allows correct fueling operation etc.
Setting up cam timing and timing belt tensioner with engine in car can be done BUT it can be very interesting!
You will learn some new swear words.
Have you checked the oil pressure before starting all this? If not you can still get a bit of an idea by doing it now by removing spark plugs and spinning it with the starter. What I'm on about is that it may not need a new oil pump.
They rarely wear out unless subjected to debris ?

Some good points, you're making me want to do it which is a bad thing as with limited time progress is slow as I only get couple of hours here and there. As always you see things to fix, replace, clean along the way.

Falcon: oil pressure was a big thing I checked on a regular basis. From the factory sender position on an autometer gauge (t piece from factory spot to electronic sender) it was over factory specs of 4.3psi at warm idle and 36psi at 3000rpm. That was with 10w50 oil (I'm going to 10w40). While the figures weren't much over factory specs they are within. If you can give any further input id be keen to hear it? (Hopefully this doesn't start the oil pressure debate)

Oh ****, I almost contributed to an OP debate. Phew Glad I read back.

Hey Falcon,

Sump isn't off yet, it's really stuck on one side still (side closest to front of car as engine is tilted up and hard to get any leverage on).

The whole oil pressure thing just goes around in circles, hence why I didn't bother with exact figures, there's a wide range of variables that come into it and in my view Toyota is telling you the safe range.

I don't quite understand the big end/sticky tires comment? Are you referring to the extra load placed on the engine? Is the shimming of oil pressure relief valves a way of raising oil pressure?

In terms of kms, the car has about 200k kms but the engine is rebuilt (the car has an interesting/somewhat unknown history) based on a number of observations I've made. Hence dropping viscosity a bit; partly because I feel it's a fresh engine and just to see how I like the viscosity/brand (trying Nulon)

Interesting.

So I'm standing at my engine torn about dropping the engine. I can see the benefits but ill be going down a rabbit hole.

If anyone out there in Sydney is keen to give me a hand, learn a few things, have a beer over a weekend and maybe has an engine crane it might be my deciding factor...

MG_MR2
On a side note, any strong opinions between using Permatex ultra grey or ultra black for rocker cover, oil pan etc?

I've always used the black one as it has an 'oil resistantance', from memory, permatex offer two slightly different Black's. Not sure about the grey, never used it to be honest.

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