Nick, if you happen to get hold of the guy somehow and you decide to get your ECU repaired, let me know, I'll add mine to the booking repair, maybe we can send them together.
Note: I'm not on FB either, so that may restrict my contact options.

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just my 2 cents but its when they sit around for ages then get powered up the problems start..also visual is no gauge in my book,the manufacturer put a lifespan on the caps and that time has come and gone..
if anyone in Perths reading this thread and wants their ecu re-capped im happy to do it if you bring it round,
eastern states pm me directly if you dont get a result?
 
pic of what i was doing a couple of weeks ago..

 

I fixed the tacho the other week by replacing the two caps. They looked fine.

Must have a look at the ecu at some stage.

Cheers

Mrskylighter
 
I'm still keen to get a professional to replace all the CAPs in my spare ECU as it's too much mucking around IMO (unless you are experienced of course) The guy I found on Ebay and Gumtree seems to be poor at replying back to inquires. I found his business though which may be a better way to reach him.
 
 

Hi,
 
My name is Michael Edwards from Electronics Revived. I am sorry about the slow response to queries at the moment - I have been having problems with the new NBN cabling that was installed and this has been rectified.
 
Regarding repair of the MR2 ECU, I have read quite a few success stories from people who have successfully completed the repair but I have also received many after a DIY repair attempt has failed - the usual failure modes from DIY attempts are shorted internal PCB layers, not fixing/cleaning circuit board damage caused by leaking capacitor electrolyte and incorrect capacitor replacements or capacitors inserted reverse polarity.
 
Remember there are a few more steps than simply replacing the capacitors. If the electrolyte has leaked from the capacitor, the circuit board must be cleaned and any copper traces and components checked. This is much more common on the Toyota Soarer 1UZ-FE ECU (89661-24220) where it is common to see corroded copper traces on the circuit board and to have nearby surface mount components fail due to corrosion.
 
You should always wear an anti static wrist strap while working on the ECU to prevent electrostatic discharge too.
 
The process I use takes around 8 hours from start to finish, it includes two circuit board cleaning stages and reapplication of the protective film (conformal coating) once the job has been completed. I have seen work from many businesses where ECUs have been returned showing bare copper circuit board traces, the conformal coating is there to protect from dust and moisture and must be reapplied. Every electrolytic capacitor is replaced, and only using Panasonic branded parts. Every repair is completed to a strict process and high standard, this is to ensure that once the repair has been completed the ECU will be fine for the life of the vehicle.
 
I can be reached at michaeledwards at electronicsrevived.com.au or 0499925444 - I am also here if anyone has questions.
 
 
 

Hey everyone, 
I changed the caps in my ST205 Blitz ECU a couple of weeks ago.
Here are some pertinent points that I hope will be useful to you all - 

1. This is not a job for an electronics noob or enthusiast. Experienced pros only!
2. The Blitz ECU has a 3rd board double sided taped between the two OEM boards and has thin and flimsy wires all over the place connecting to the OEM boards. You have to be VERY careful with getting access to all of the electrolytic caps on the OEM boards. Change the caps in your Blitz at your own peril! The OEM ECU by comparison is much simpler and less risky.
3. Jaycar do stock 105 degree low ESR (equivalent series resistance) electrolytic capacitors. This is what I used.
4. Electrolytic capacitor life if governed by 3 primary things - 
   1. The quality and ESR of the capacitor.
   2. The amount of time that there is power applied to the capacitor. Think of how many kms your car has travelled as a guide. Less KMs = caps will last for a longer time. Heat is the enemy here, which in time will dry out the electrolytic gel within the capacitor.
   3. The amount of heat that the interior of the car experiences - i.e. where the ECU is located. It's in the boot for a MR2 and in the cabin for a Celica. This means that if your car is out in the sun all summer, your caps will dry out quicker.
5. The heat from the soldering iron doesn't travel well to the other side of the Toyota ECU PCB, and especially when it is on a large earth track. My good Weller iron died years ago, and I have been managing with a cheapie since then. This wasn't up to the job. I really needed an iron with an adjustable heat range for this job, with the upper end of the heat range being required in this case.
6. I never use solder wick. This is a personal preference though. I remove capacitors by easing them out progressively by melting the solder on each leg, pulling the leg out slightly, move to the other leg and do the same and so on until it comes out. This method minimises the chance of track damage that you can get from solder suckers on single sided boards. The Toyota ECUs are double sided, so less of an issue, though I still don't like wicks and suckers. I only use suckers to suck the hole once the component has already been removed. Wicks need a lot of heat, which is why I don't like it.
7. I can't back up the next statement with data yet, though I think that the St205 is using less fuel since I changed the caps. It didn't run badly before, though was a bit thirsty. After I changed the caps, I drove from the Sydney Olympic Park area up to Putty Road, did a lot of "spirited driving" up to the Hunter Valley and then drove back via the M1. I only used just over half a tank. I was surprised by this.
8. Although I could potentially do the cap change job for others, I have decided that I won't due to the effort involved. I have a race car to build! :-) I may do it for people that I know well though if you twist my arm enough. It would be best for Michael Edwards to do the job for most people, assuming that he does a good job. It looks like he does. 

ElectronicsRevived
I generally stay away from Jaycar capacitors. The quality is unknown so you don't know what you are getting.
Due to the mark up Jaycar place on their components you can get good quality brands for around the same price.

I use Panasonic FC series for repairs. They are a known good brand, have AEC-Q200 compliance for use in automotive applications and Panasonic provide an indepth datasheet outlining all specifications.

If anyone wishes to complete the repair themselves I can supply these capacitors for the cost + shipping. You will need to have soldering experience. I am unsure of the effectiveness of the desoldering vacuum tools, I use a vacuum desoldering station to quickly and safely remove components.

If anyone is interested in having this work performed, I am willing to complete the repair for $99 + shipping - I have a work request form here www.electronicsrevived.com.au/automotive-ecu-repair

Does anyone know if this guy is still around? I tried to ring the number above but it isnt his anymore. His website is also down now? 

This is an interesting read. Replacing the caps definitely sounds worthwhile (first start issues) but sounds like a very tedious job. Any current information/advice on this?