HELP: SW20 GT Broke Down, now Cranks but will not Start!

Hey all,
 
I had an unfortunate experience last week where my car shut down completely, now it cranks but will not start.
 
The starter motor is fine, battery is new and read a solid 14.xx volts so alternator isn't the issue. I thought spark (I'm yet to test), but I've noticed when I turn the ignition to the "on" position, the fuel pump whines for a very short period, then stops completely (I'm running a habitually noisy walbro 255lph).
 
I suspect the fuel pump, or associated wiring, might be shot. Strange that the pump runs for a very short period then stops.
 
My thoughts are:
 
- Blocked fuel filter (but pump should still run?);
- Fuel pump itself is stuffed;
- Alarm is dodgy (but wouldn't explain the shut-off mid drive?)
 
Any ideas?

I could be completely wrong here, but when in the On position isn't the fuel pump just priming?

Faut finding fun.

Fuel; Under the ash tray / front of gear stick leaver is a grey plug, power th the fuel pump. Needs to read at 9v for low power and 12v+ for high power - anywhere in between is fine (and should hear the fuel pump sound). Should run when at reds, stop, then run again when starting/started. Tell you if fuel pump getting power when cranking.
Change fuel filter engine bay, there is also a fuel filter end of the pump that can clog.
Smell if it's flooding when turning over.
Many other things in fuel to check but that's a start.

Spark; remove spark plug on lead, touch the engine with spark plug, (Google testing spark plug on how it's done - don't follow just my short version) and turn over to see if spark.

A lot of things, start fuel and spark. Just because the fuel pump runs doesn't mean it's firing at the fuel injector at the right rate. Breaking down indicates generally, blocked fuel filter or supply issue, failed relay/circuit. Happy hunting, report back what you see,

You could take off the top timing belt cover to see if the timing belt is still in one piece and the cam gears turn when cranked. With a torn belt the engine would turn over quicker than normal though. I have had this exact failure in the past with an SW20 MR2.

You need to correctly check for a good quality spark at a spark plug. Should be a strong sharp blue spark at a normal fast cranking speed. The plug needs to be earthed properly to the engine. Not just flapping around giving a half arsed earth. At this stage you don't actually know if you have a spark at all much less if it's strong enough to light a mixture or if it's timed correctly. You would be well advised to disable the fuel pump while testing as it will be flooding the cylinders every time it's being cranked. Where are you? Maybe someone is close by and willing to help.

Check this link it may help.
https://www.mr2australia....2play/tm.aspx?m=132739

Its alive!

Turns out the AFM loom (disconnected, I'm running MAP with my Megasquirt) had made its way down into the bay and was rubbing against the hot block, melting off the insulation, and the wires crossed. Thank GOD that is sorted.

Thanks all for the ideas