Sway bars with coil-over Question?

I just installed Heavy Duty ST sway bar on the front with standard suspension. I notice the steering seem harder to turn as it twist the sway bar a little bit. This setting is for daily driving. For the track I do have a good set of Coil overs if I install theses without sway bars attached. I feel the car will turn in sharper? The coil overs would be set harder, rebound  and springs to stop body roll, also keeping inside wheel in contact with the road. As it would not be fighting the inside wheel lifting it of the ground with the heavy duty sway bar.
 
Any experts out there?

How are the sway bars drop links setup? They should have zero preload and if possible aligned true vertical.

Reddtarga
"I just installed Heavy Duty ST sway bar on the front with standard suspension."
 
Just in case you don't already know, with SW20's when using stiffer ARB's it is important to fit reo plates on the front, otherwaise the chassis can crack under the ARB mounts.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=62180
 

Thanks! That has been done.

Is there zero preload in the links?
 
I have experimented with different swaybars and coilovers and have found stock ARBs to be the best, for my style of driving anyways. With the larger diameter front it should turn in better and for track you should consider dialing in as much castor as possible, which will give you dynamic camber and improved turnin.

I'm leaning towards just leaving the standard ARBs with standard suspension for daily use. When i'm out for track days just install my coilovers with the standard ARBs. This will let me adjust Front camber and with Sonic Boom Camber adjuster on the rear.  I will also look into adjusting the caster also. As I'm not getting any clear info on this Question. Trial and error it is!

grosso
I'm leaning towards just leaving the standard ARBs with standard suspension for daily use. When i'm out for track days just install my coilovers with the standard ARBs. This will let me adjust Front camber and with Sonic Boom Camber adjuster on the rear.  I will also look into adjusting the caster also. As I'm not getting any clear info on this Question. Trial and error it is!

Like I said at the beginning of this post - there is no 'easy fix' for this.  It is all down to what suits the driver and what they're capable of controlling.  

stuka
Good info reddtarga
 
ZeroGK with the AW11 swore by the swaybarless setup. You need to consider spring rates as these would be drastically different from the typical factoryish set up. Have a search on the forum otherwise I might be able to dig something up from my records.

Thanks!

Some test update notes: Tried ST heavy duty swat bars with standard suspension. This pulled the connecting link out of the strut as the standard suspension must have been too soft for the ST bar. Now need to weld and repair strut if I want to use it again. So now I have installed my HSD Coilovers 6kg front and 10kgs rear with out any sway bar  connections. I set the damper to 16 the softest setting and adjusted the spring rate 10% harder. I went through the Adelaide Hills yesterday to test it. I found it work better and it stuck to road like glue, yes the ride was firmer and having no sway bar connected it soaked up the bumps well. The change off direction was sweet. Yes my kidneys are still Ok. In the future I will test it again and I will adjust dampers setting to see if it improves more. Others tests I will connect the ST bar on front only, then the back st bar as well at Mallala race track to see if it's needed, easy to test the bars are on the car still, I just removed the left hand front and rear connecting links.