Clutch pedal got soft

Found the problem leak coming from slave cylinder. Was gonna get mechanical to replace. But been told easy to do myself. Im gonna give it a go.but wondering is it easyer to take off beneath car or i can get off from top.

Bleeding the clutch is the fun part

If your fluid level has decreased to an extent that your pedal has gone soft you will need to bleed the system, and you need to find the leak (obviously).

Don't forget to check for leak near the push rod of the master, it will leak down into the car inside the firewall.

Easiest and quickest way to bleed is to pressurise the fluid chamber, fit a small bike tube valve and pump a few psi, then open bleed nipple. The air pressure will bleed and flush the system.

You will probably need someone to help hold the cap on to keep pressure in while you crack the nipple.

Cheers

Yes if you fix leak and bleed it will be back to normal.

Don't forget some places can resleeve the slave/master with a stainless sleeve. Might be cheaper/quicker etc?

Cheers

Brake / clutch master/slaves are basically a bore with a piston that has seals. Either the seals wear/score, and/or the bore and/or piston. Also another good reason to regularly change brake fluid - its hydro scoping and can cause corrosion.

The place will bore out your slave/master and insert a stainless sleeve so you end up with the same size bore.

Then new seals (and piston if needed) and it's as good as new, if not better as the stainless bore is durable.

It is very cost effective and I have done this on many vehicles, mainly trucks, but concept is the same. If factory parts are pricey, this is good way to go.

If you can get a complete slave for a good price then it's probably easier for you?

Get info on the options then you can make an informed decision.

Cheers

Glad I saw this, I just replaced the master and slave cylinder on my '90 Turbo. ArtyMR2 is right you can just get a place to re-do the cylinder but for me it cost me $260 for a new master, slave and fluid. So I just got new stuff. 

Worst part for me was trying to reattach the slave to the gearbox, those 2 12mm bolts were just satanic. If you are going to replace it (which I suggest you do seeing as its not too expensive) bolt it up to the lines first then just spend 2 hours under the car trying to get the bolts into the box, don't bolt it to the box then try to hook up the lines. 

As for bleeding. I was recommended this orgasmic method of reverse bleeding. I tried the one man kits and pressurizing the master through the little hole in the lid but the feel of the peddle was stiffest after I did this. Because the bleed is at a low part in the system of an MR2 that makes it difficult to bleed but if you get a syringe from supercrap auto for mixing 2 stroke fuel it comes with a plastic pipe and you basically fill the syringe with fluid attach it to the bleed valve and push fluid back through the system till it starts to fill the master cylinder, doing so should push out any air bubbles. Took me 10min and would highly reccomend. 

All good, it's much better to have this knowledge before getting under the car haha. Also it probably go's without saying but use a flare spanner for the clutch line bolts, nothing else. If you use an open ender and round it you'll cry for the 2 weeks it takes to order new lines in. 

Go do some yoga to get calm and flexible and best of luck!