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Chris’ SC Auto AW11

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Surgeon
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2015/10/11 15:20:06 (permalink)
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Took the car to a performance workshop yesterday and let them have a good look through the car.
 
To do list now looks like,
 
  • New rotors/pads all around + brake fluid.
  • Transmission flush.
  • New shock absorbers all around + various bushings. Any recommendations on shocks? Not sure I can afford coil-overs.
  • And at some point in the future, drop the engine to replace water-pump and whatever else usually gets done while the engine is out.
 
 
 
#16
maj
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2015/10/12 10:01:48 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Koni shocks and Eibach pro kit springs are the go-to combo for these cars if you don't want coilovers.
 
Sadly bushings there are limited options these days. TRD bushes are no longer available and even Cusco bushes aren't easily obtainable and not much better than stock unless you go with their bone jarring pillowball bushes (not street friendly at all).
Toyota Genuine don't make all bushings replaceable, they prefer you buy the whole control arm etc.
 
Prothane bushes are the cheapest and easiest option, they are noticeably firmer than stock but as long as you lube them up properly, they work great.
 
Dropping the engine isn't so hard on these once you know what needs to be unplugged etc.
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, front and rear mains and crank keyway are pretty much the bare minimum. If you have any slight sign of a sump leak though I recommend taking that off and resealing it and doing the oil pump gasket at the same time too.

--
"Autodub" - 1987 AW11 G-Limited, Dark Blue Mica 4AGZE T-Top 4EAT
MY15 BRZ Special Edition + STi muffler, Coil Springs, Tower Strut, Wheels & Sound Tube!
#17
MCT_MR2
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2015/10/12 18:58:15 (permalink)
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Drop the engine to change the water pump? I've personally never understood this concept. Unless you are doing a timing belt/water pump and rear main seal at the same time, i would never pull the engine unnecessarily. Especially on cars this old, are you disturb way too many things, and risk snowballing repairs.

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224.6KW @ 20PSI

more to come......
#18

feral4mr2
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2015/10/12 22:29:38 (permalink)
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can do water pump, timing belt/tensioner, oil pump, cam seals, head gasket and new rings and bearings with-out having to drop the engine.  rear main is the only one you cant get to with-out splitting from the gearbox.

if it's not blown, it sucks
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Surgeon
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2015/10/14 12:24:49 (permalink)
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Thanks for the writeup maj. The water-pump was just one of the reasons to drop the engine. Seems sensible to get timing belt and whatever else needs doing while it's out.
 
Picture from Driven Motorsport. Amazing bunch of guys there btw, never met mechanics so genuinely friendly and passionate about their work.
 
Was amusing to see it surrounded by endless evos and sti's.
 

 
 
 
 
#20
Surgeon
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/01/31 17:29:30 (permalink)
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I've been meaning to update this. Nothing super exciting, but making progress.
 
Shortly after the car had been serviced, noticed a pretty awful bearing sound coming from the engine. So the car sounded like **** for months while I tried to get the right pulley.
 

 
Finally got all my parts.
 

 
RDA750, RDA751. Just plain face. I couldn't justify double the cost for slotted/drilled. The fronts were covered with the newer anti-rust gun barrel stuff while the rears weren't. My mechanic sprayed the rear hats for free, which was nice.
 
Pads are Project Mu HC800 (Fronts) and NS400 (Rears). Didn't intend for mismatched pads, but the supplier didn't have stock of the NS400 fronts and upgraded me.
 
Brakes definitely feel better with new fluid, rotors and pads. Probably not the huge upgrade I would have liked, but those big brake kits are super expensive, and trying to find parts for the GT4 upgrade seemed like a huge pain.
 
Also got the trans flushed. Not sure that there's a huge improvement, but glad it's done.
 
After all that and having the alternator tensioner pulley replaced, the sound was still there . . .Turned out that it was actually the air-con.  The air-con never worked, and was completely empty of freon so time for it to all go. Had pretty much everything removed, except for the evap unit in the dash.
 
Other than that, just some strut bars. Really didn't need them, but they look cool.
 

 
 
Also got some custom rocker covers super cheap on sale. Probably wont have them put on until the engine is cleaned up a bit.
 

 
 
Nothing else much planned any time soon. Assuming good weather (and no more problems), I'll probably be taking it to All Japan Day in February.
 
Going to be studying soon and back to being super poor, so suspension might get a look at when my Austudy funds build up.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
post edited by Surgeon - 2016/01/31 17:39:06
#21

Surgeon
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/02/29 18:48:41 (permalink)
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All Japan Day was great. Really nice selection of cars.
 

 
Still, can't believe that out of the 500 or so cars that showed up, didn't see any other mr2's. Not even any sw20's or spyders.
 
 
 
 
#22
Surgeon
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/04/11 20:01:02 (permalink)
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Made a friend in the car park.
 

#23
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/08/20 09:28:47 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Shocks and springs went in last week.
 
Car dropped slightly, probably only about a 1cm. Guess the original springs had sagged a little.
 

 
It seems like the new suspension work has made it immediately apparent that my rear calipers need a rebuild, as it now sounds like there's something scraping on the rotor.
 
Currently in the process of getting quotes on the caliper rebuild kits from amayama. Honestly, seems like this thing has spent more time off the road than on it lately. Have actually considered selling, but wouldn't be able to make back any of the money I've put in.
 
Also, what supercharger oil do ppl recommend for the sc12? Seems like the Toyota stuff is super overpriced at $50 for 50ml. Found a couple other international sellers on ebay selling claimed sc oil in more reasonable quantity. Link Link2
 
 
#24
barry
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/08/20 23:03:25 (permalink)
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Rebuilding the calipers is a great idea. Probably cost you about $50each for the rear calipers. I just got mine from a brake specalist here in australia. Paid cash/got it a bit cheaper. Only had to wait 3 days for them to come in.
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/09/23 14:50:12 (permalink)
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Rear calipers now rebuilt, although the scraping sound was just a brake pad shim. Rocker cover gasket done, and new rocker covers on. Just hoping for some trouble free motoring at this point.
 

 

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benji_A11
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/09/26 11:09:20 (permalink)
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Your car looks excellent, everything about it is so clean.  
Love your work! Keep it up!
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/10/03 18:49:15 (permalink)
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Out of curiosity, how much do people think my aw11 would be worth? Really not looking to sell, but would like to weigh up some options.
 
 
Quick run down,
 
86 AW11 SC Targa Auto
106,000 on original unmodified 4AGZE
Full AM Performance exhaust from manifold back.
16” Rota Slipstream Wheels (w/ spare set wheels/tires)
Eibach springs/Koni Yellow Adjustable Struts (Aug 16)
Front and Rear Cusco strut bars
Air-con delete
Aftermarket steering wheel
Bottom half professional respray/ OEM skirts removed (holes welded)
Custom resprayed rocker cover
 
Everything works.
 
Last fluid service 10/15
Coolant replaced 11/15
Trans fluid replaced 11/15
Brake rotors/pads replaced/brake fluid 01/16
Alt belt tensioner replaced 01/16
Control arm/radius rod bushes replaced 08/16
Rocker cover gasket done 09/16
Rear brake calipers rebuilt 09/16
 
To do, replace weeping water pump, reseal weeping sump.
 
Various spares other bits and pieces. Probably some stuff I've forgotten.
 
#28
feral4mr2
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Re: Chris’ SC Auto AW11 2016/10/03 21:53:30 (permalink)
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dunno.. just give it to me, i'll look after it... :)

if it's not blown, it sucks
#29
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