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Joes NEW Grey Beast

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Randomity
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/06/22 19:53:00 (permalink)
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A very wide tyre at that, which is exactly why I have them!
Nice wheels are for show cars, not race cars

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
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Randomity
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/07/05 18:32:54 (permalink)
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Update:
 
Front left shocker is totally shot. Got skatey around high-speed left-hand turns and especially over bumps.
 
Time for Coilovers!
 She's coming off the road (again) until coilovers go in and (if the tax man is nice) a very substantial brake upgrade too!
 
Decided against getting BC BR's again and am going with Casa for the added customization to spring rates and damper settings.
 
 

 
Maybe i'll be able to drive her again in a few months...
 

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#17
Randomity
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/08/08 15:30:16 (permalink)
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About a month later and I've decided to go with another set of stock suspension now, rather than forking out for coilovers just yet.
 
In the meantime, I got some new seats, because I didn't like the ones it had, and bought a new pair of rims for the front!
The seats were some aftermarket ones I bought from a friend, and the rims are a pair of super lightweight Enkeis!
 
The seats had no mounting brackets and the old rails went with my old seats, so I had to make up some mounting brackets for the seats to get them in the car at all! It took a bit of trail and error, but for a first fabrication project, they didn't run out too bad.

running 17X7.5 and 17X9.5 stagger now. It's a pretty large stagger, and probably quite unnecessary considering i'm not putting out a HUGE amount of power, but they were cheap and I am stingy, so I can't complain.


 
It's still got a little bit to go before it's track ready, but it's certainly getting there!
Just need some brake pads that actually stop the car, and some rubber for these mismatched rims, and it'll be set to go!
I'm also going to look into making up some adjustable caster arms. The stock ones in the Gen 1's are excellent, but are getting harder to come by and are costing more and more. It has Tein Adjustable arms in it now, but, as we found out at work, they gave a maximum of 1 and a half degrees. Definitely not enough for my liking, as I ran 5 degrees in my last one, with no power steering at all!
Wish me luck on that endeavor, it'll be interesting to see how it turns out!
 
Got a lot of other cool stuff done in the meantime, though, notably helping EssDub complete the 3rd 6MT Spyder conversion in the country, and getting a couple of days to road test and align it. Was one hell of a weekend to get that done though.
Safe to say that my next MR2 will probably be a Spyder, but there's a lot of planning to do for that car, and that's not for this thread.

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#18

Randomity
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/04 09:12:02 (permalink)
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So after yet another steering rack failure, the car has been pulled off the road, again.
The rack is well and truly shot, and I'm not entirely sure why at this point.
The P/S pump wasn't receiving power for the last few months, so I've been running around with manual steering with no real issues as of yet. But 2 weeks ago, on my way home, I noticed a massive wobble driving at 110k's.
Took it to work the next day and lo and behold, the rack itself had a good 7-10mm movement up and down. Something let go pretty bad in there.
So I drove it home and disconnected the battery, and it's sat there for the last 2 weeks.
I've decided to pull it off the road for the next 6-9 months and work on it as a side project for now, rather than have it as my daily driver and keep pouring every cent I earn into it because otherwise I'll never get anything else done.
 
I've been planning on getting some extensive work done to it anyway, and having it off of the road will certainly help me do it.
 
First thing to do is remove the power steering rack, column, pump, ECU, etc, and replace it with a manual rack from an N/A. I've heard from different sources that this is both an easy job that requires nothing more than the replacement parts, and that the mounts are totally different and will require chassis modification to make the manual rack fit. If it does require mods to the rack mounts, I'll be going to a fabricator I know well, and we'll look into making a bolt-on bracket to be able to just bolt it in rather than cut-and-shut.
Either way, going an manual rack is preferred as there's less to break, and a significant reduction in weight.
And, to be honest, I've felt a bit weird since I bought the car, since I was so used to the manual steering in my old N/A, and much prefer the feel of it.
 
Next will be supporting mods to keep the car nigh unkillable.
These will include:
-Mishimoto radiator
-W2A intercooler (Was considering the ST205 GT4 one, but they're a bit chunky for my liking)
-Forward-facing plenum out of a Caldina
-Oil cooler with thermostat and filter relocation because Gen 2's suck
-Berk dump pipe (which I just bought this week) so my downpipe doesn't keep cracking like the current one I have does.
-Figuring out where the tiny oil leak I've got coming from the turbo is actually coming from (fingers crossed it's just the gasket again and not the turbo itself)
-Removing the drivers side axle and slipping an o-ring over it to stop the tiny gearbox oil leak it has because of the aftermarket dif.
 
I'm well aware that these mods will set the car up to handle a considerable amount more power with relative ease, but I'm not that keen on huge power just yet.
 
When the time comes, though I'll be getting a few new things, such as
-Kelford 276/270, 9.9mm/9.6mm lift Cams and cam gears
-fuel pump and injectors
-Standalone ECU (still weighing up each ECU choice at this point, definitely open to people opinions on the Haltech's, Megasquirt, Atom, PFC, whatever), and a good safe tune. I want this to run pretty much forever.
-potentially bigger turbo (I don't really want to run too much boost and sacrifice the response the CT20B already has)
-possibly swapping the E153 for a 3S-GE Camry E56. There's a considerable weight difference between the two boxes, and the ratios in the 56 are shorter, which suit my driving nicely. I won't be putting out the sort of insane power that would require an E153's strength. The issue here is that the E56 won't take the Quaife center I currently have, and I certainly don't like the sound of going from an LSD to an open-wheeler in a car putting out 200+rwKw. Again, still debating that at this point.
Weight reduction is a bit important here as, and I'm sure you all know, the turbo SW's are fat ****s who could use a bit of a diet.
 
Again, it's down to how viable the options presented are. Other than swapping gearboxes, most other items on the list are pretty much no brainers. Except for the Cams, they would remove the driveability on the street pretty quickly.
 
Open to opinions guys, let me know what you think!

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#19
rikkir
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/04 10:51:32 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Nice shopping list... I couldn't afford most of that lol. I'm just happy to have my car on the road and driveable. It's a pity that you'll be off the road for that long and missing MTC!
#20
stuka
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/04 20:00:35 (permalink)
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Joe are you aware the manual rack is slower?
#21

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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/04 20:05:07 (permalink)
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I was not, but how much slower is it?
I would still consider it worth it just to not have the issues I've been having consistently with this.
Either that or do as Steve suggested and just crimp the ends of a P/S rack and pump it full of grease...

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#22
Carmikey
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 09:06:37 (permalink)
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Joe,
Why dont you just remove it & have it professionly reconditioned? They do them in Salisbury for about $225.
#23
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 11:35:27 (permalink)
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Carmikey
Joe,
Why dont you just remove it & have it professionly reconditioned? They do them in Salisbury for about $225.


I could do that. But then i'll have a good rack with no working pump, as that's still not resolved yet.
The main reasons for wanting to convert are because a manual rack is far more reliable since there's far fewer components to fail, it weighs less, and because i don't like the feel of the power steering in these (and most) cars. I have always preferred manual racks for the feedback and feel they offer.

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#24
stuka
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 12:03:42 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Joe you can still user the power steering rack, just remove all the stuff you dont need. Thats what I did and it works fine. $225 for a rebuild is a great price and you will have a warranty. The power steering rack is slow enough as is, manual would be even worse. 
#25
EssDub
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 15:42:52 (permalink)
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Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)

Currently...
'03 Spyder 6MT - T28 inc...
------------------------------
Previously...
'00 FD3S
'94 SW20 Bathurst R
'88 AW11
'92 SW20 G-Limited
'90 SW20 G
'91 SW20 Mongrel
'94 G Limited T-Bar
'92 GT-S Turbo 
 
 
#26
rikkir
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 16:16:25 (permalink)
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EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)

How hard is that to do? Is it just a straight pinion swap?
#27
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 16:29:02 (permalink)
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rikkir
EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)

How hard is that to do? Is it just a straight pinion swap?



If they go in the manual racks, and the swap isn't too complicated, that will be well worth doing!
I know Steve has been looking for a way to get a quicker ratio rack in his racecar for a while now, and is currently looking into the AW11 racks, and how to make them fit to utilise the Quaife quick-ratio racks they can have.
 
Either way, I'm still leaning towards the manual rack. The ratio doesn't worry me too much (never had any issues in my old car, which was N/A and came with one), but I'm unsure of how easy this rack will be to rebuild. I've never seen movement like it before in any car I've worked on.
 
I'll be able to get a complete manual rack and steering column for ~$250, which isn't much more, and only more work for me. But it's not like the car's getting driven any time soon anyway.

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#28
5SGTE
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/10/06 17:22:11 (permalink)
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EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)




This would've fixed the great QR pinion debacle from a while ago.   Is it really possible?
#29
Randomity
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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast 2015/11/29 21:20:09 (permalink)
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 Another update.
 
Car hasn't moved since the last post, but has been chucked on axle stands.
While it was up there, I took the chance to remove the turbo to make space for some braided oil lines to replace the PITA hard lines, and put a Berk dump pipe I recently acquired on the turbo, since my second dump pipe has started to crack.
Upon pulling the turbo out, I discovered that it had about 4-5mm of shaft play (twice what it had upon getting the car home), and when I got it on the floor, a good amount of oil poured out of the compressor housing.
I know these engines breathe a bit of oil, but not that much considering the last 100 or so k's had been limping around.
Oil seals were clearly blown, and I'm lucky I pulled it out when I did, who knows when it might've let go and sent bits of compressor wheel through my intake?
 
I've got another turbo on order. A rebuilt steel-wheeled, hi-flowed CT26.
I considered going for an aftermarket turbo, like a disco potato, but don't fancy having to put adapter plates and customs dump pipes on the list of stuff to get.
Wasn't planning on putting crazy boost into this engine anyway, so a 26 will do nicely.
 
Also got some Gen 1 caster arms to replace the Tein ones I had in there originally.
I initially thought the Tein caster arms were no good, since I was only getting 1.5 degrees of caster out of them. But upon putting the OEM ones in, I managed 2 degrees, max.
I know for a fact that these arms offer up to 5.5 degrees, since I had the same ones in my old car, which is making me think that there may be something wrong with my suspension somewhere.
Visually, it looks fine, I can't pick any faults, but I've been wrong before.
 
Anyone got any ideas?
I've pulled the arms themselves out, leaving the brackets bolted in place, and will be taking the arms to work, and making replicas out of the high tensile threaded rod we use for truck U-bolts.
This way I can ensure the LCA's are moving far enough forward to get the caster I'm actually after.
 
And last thing on the list, I pulled the steering rack out again, and will be taking the advice of you guys and getting this one rebuilt. But I'll be removing the P/S pump, reservoir and lines, and pumping the rebuilt rack with grease.
Hopefully by the time I'm ready to get the rack rebuilt, I'll be able to get my hands on a Spyder pinion to give this QR SW rack a shot. If it works, we'll know it's a relatively easy way to improve lock-to-lock on SW racks!
 
I also think I'll be removing the aircon from the car as an added weight reduction.
on the way home from buying, we hit a rabbit, and it looks like it was a biggun!
it broke the front bar along the bottom, and bent the condenser right in the middle.
I never used my aircon anyway.

 
Unfortunately, these developments have left me unable to make it to MTC16 (sorry guys), but you can bet I'l be there in 2017 to give it a thrashing! 
 
Let me know if you guys have any ideas or suggestions!
Cheers!

Current: 1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S
1997 BMW 318ti Rally car/Lemons car?
Daily: 2017 Subaru WRX
Tow Car: 2011 Ford Falcon FG XR6
 
Previous: 1999 AE101 Corolla
1986 AE82 Corolla
1991 SW20 MR2 Mongrel
1991 Nissan S13 Silvia
1982 Nissan 280ZX
#30
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