Got the car back today.
Seems it was a good move, the car has had the left rear 1/4 panel replaced at some point and there was only 4 spot weld on the B pillar from top to bottom.  That has been fixed.
 
Strut top will be done when I'm doing the welding on the the brace, and the there is some easy to get to stuff inside the car that I'll attempt to get done before the next race weekend
 
 

 

Heading out to the track this weekend.  

Hoping to drop 0.20 off the lap time to catch back up with the quickest car from last round.
I'll grab some photo's and possibly some gopro footage of the laps

Adrian

Bradm
You don't realise how much weight is in the double skinned firewall until you spend the time to drill the spot welds and remove the second skill and sound deadening. 

Is this the firewall behind the seats? How much weight did you manage to pull out and how much work was it? Did you just use regular drill bits to remove the spot welds or use some fancy tool? I'm looking at removing it but don't want to bite off too much and end up with a half hacked job I never finish.

I haven't been weighing things to get an exact figure, but it was a decent amount compared to other things I've removed.
I bought a spot weld drill, same tool and technique as this youtube clip.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk3s4ucJg7k
 
I'm 175cm tall and and weight about 115kg so crouching in the car drilling all the welds wasn't the most fun thing I did that day.  It also takes a bit of working to pry the skin off as the sound deadener is bonded to both.
I used a specially shaped spade bit (supercheap air tool kit) in an air chisel to remove the left over sound deadener and all the deadener on the floors etc.  They work good if you round off the corners and blunten them. That stops them from digging in and cutting the steel.
the left over bit from drilling the welds are also sharp as ****, there blood and there was swearing.  A four inch grinder with a flap disk takes care of the sharp stuff in short order.

A word on the supercheap air tools.   I'm a mechanic and run my own shop, although I would never use the impact guns full time in a workshop they make a good backup. The die grinder went through a few cast iron cylinder heads before it died, the air ratchet is slow and noisy but awesome for a home workshop and the air chisel you will never kill.   Good value kit for a DIYer.

Total weight of skin and sound deadening is around 8 kg. Probably one of the most effective weight loss versus effort you can do on the car, with the right tools its not too bad

Manged a PB on the weekend, not my much, but PB is PB.
 
I made some alignment changes before the weekend in an effort to try and cure a corner exit understeer issue and mid corner rear grip issue. 
I didn't think a half degree change in rear camber and 1mm toe change was going to change the car so much.
First two sessions were spent getting my head around the changes,  after that the new found rear grip became obvious on the off camber left turn where previously a bit of throttle with a corner speed about 65 would cause the rear to get loose.  Now I can lift the speed a little and getting on the throttle just lights up the inside rear tyre.
 
Over all happy with the changes and liking the grip, I just need more laps.

Current alignment is
Front,  Camber -2.5
           Castor 2 and 2.5 (not adjustable yet)
           Toe   2mm total toe out
 
Rear,   Camber 1 degree 50min
           Toe   2mm total toe in.
 
Does anyone know if these cars had any amount of setback from the factory?  
My car has 4mm setback on the right rear and 8mm on the front. 
 

EssDub
Grab yourself some caster arms from a 89-91 model and slap them on there.  Then you can have your caster and not break the bank ^_^

Tried to buy 93 that had them at auction a few weeks ago, reserve was stupid high so...................
I think I'd prefer to stay away from rubber bushes if I'm going to spend money though.

I have a plan in my head, it's just a mater of deciding if I spend the money on the car or the mountain bike.