Help, the car suddenly stalls on the road and won't start back up

If you are taking it to a mechanic, he should sort it out without too much stress. If you have little money left on the car, the mechanic option may be a tough decision. Usually unless the mechanic works on MR2s, I wouldn't give the car to them.

If your going to keep the car and have the tools to work on the car, there are easy steps to its first service (as a new owner). I bought a cheap mr2 and had a few few few lots of hick ups with the car so PM me if you want any more advice than the details below.

To clarify, what modifications has it had (ECU, Injectors, engine components).

If it's stalling under idle and you just want to get it home, use a flat head screw driver in the top of the throttle body to turn the idle up screw up. Stock setting is 800 rpm, maybe set it to 1200 rpm to assist in possibly stopping it from stalling. When driving it, don't allow the rpm to drop off suddenly, so don't jump on the clutch and break from high rpm, drive softly.

So you get the car home, this is what I followed, look online for the BGB MR2 turbo; it has lots of info. Start off service I did; check your AFM setting (read your setting off your AFM), check your TPS setting, clean the throttle body, check all hoses for any leaks. Now you need to spend some money, a must to change the fuel filter (I had to change mine twice within two months of buying the car due to being blocked), and change oil and oil filter. Now it's how far can your wallet go, change usual suspects spark plugs/spark plug leads/air filter, check distributor and replace if needed, get the fault codes from the computer (write down). Clear the computer fault code memory. Take for a drive, re-adjust idle screw, and all should be better. Get fault codes from computer and fix as needed.
If you have an aftermarket ECU, a dyno maybe needed to get things running right.

Fuel pump for a higher flowing fuel pump is around the $150, it's a common upgrade from what I have read, they can be a noiser as they sit right next to you (under their gear stick)..... however the instillation is a effort and a mechanic will charge decent for it. There are guides online, took me about 3 hours to remove and the same to get it back in. Use the right tools for the fuel lines, common scanners can round it off and then you are stuffed, so have the right tools. What took days of the car sitting there, was cleaning the tank. I had to clean mine twice, apple cider vinegar from memory - depending on the condition of your tank. Once clean, put back together.

The above is a guide of what I needed to fix mine and seems common. It's only advice, I am not a trade qualified mechanic.

Thanks so much for the advice plus support

Went to my friend's uncle at Granville called C&T Auto Mech Repairs
He has a garage near when I stall my car
He drove me to the car
And it starts up fine
We decided to head back to his garage which is like a 5min drive
I drove his car behind him driving the mr2

It stalls again after the first corner
Can't start the engine back up again
The pops the bonnet and I'm not sure what he did
He placed the dipstick inside one of the tubes which was going into the engine
No idea what it is sorry, I have little mechanical knowledge

He told me there was no spark
And called a tow for me
Right now I'm waiting for the tow which is like 1.5hrs away

And is raining as well
So we were both got wet
I feel sorry for bothering him, when he got business to make at his garage
Anyway he drove back in his car
And I'm waiting on the streets, just writing up an update

I have an boost and volts gauge on the side
Ignition on, is showing 11volts
Fuel level is at 12.5%

When I turn the key
The rpm will jump up to like 100-200 rpm
But the car wouldn't start

Battery still have power
All the electrical stuff works

Don't think I can drive this car anytime soon,
Just waiting for the car to get to the garage
And he will plug it into a computer for me

Fingers cross
Please!! I just bought it yesterday...

I reckon the problem will be from your ignition coil or igniter module. It is a common problem when they are gone. Igniter Module or Coil heats up, causes a break in the circuit you lose all spark. Cools back down circuit connects and you can start the car and run it for a few minutes till it heats up again. Even when the car runs however it will run terrible. When he checks the fault code it will probably bring up the fault code for a break in the ignition circuit.

hey guys
 
Just heard news from the mechanic
he told me my fuel pump is working fine
 
and said it was the ECU problem and ask me to get a ECU from somewhere
he tried to send the non working ECU to get it fix but was no hope
 
this car is giving me the biggest headache T.T
 
I just hope it really is the ECU that is faulty
does any ECU work with the car? or I have to find an exact 93 turbo import ECU?
 
what do you guys think??
 
thanks for your time
Vincent

Yea I find it weird also
 
but the mechanic is a friend's uncle
he called me today at 5, and said my mr2 is a mess, he said it isn't my fuel pump faulty,
and said is my ECU,
he sent my ECU to "some expert", but they couldn't do anything about it,
he just asked me to try and find a new one cause he is very busy with other jobs in his garage,
 
maybe he is not familiar with sw20 and doesn't know what he is doing
I don't want to offend him in anyway, cause he is a experienced mechanic.
 
btw,
the car has an Amp behind the driver's seat and also aftermarket audio unit and speakers,
also have a boost gauge and a volts gauge,
 
could poor wiring work of these lead to damaging my ECU?
the car still starts but stalls either straight after or runs for 200meters


 
thanks so much for the help
 
 

It could be the ECU. I had similar symptoms.
 
Mine went about 4 years back. One of the capacitors inside were leaking. Symptoms were the engine would just turn off while driving, independent of anything else (speed, load, rpm, boost etc). The speed and tach would drop to zero and the engine would stop. Because the ignition was set to "on" when the engine shut off, the dash lights would be active - I never lost power (ie. radio, lights etc.) but the engine stops because there is no spark/fuel.
 
After sitting overnight and having a cold start, the first time it would turn off 20-40 minutes after driving, then 10, then 5. It would progressively decrease that time until it would just crank over and not start. ie the more "warmed up" the car was, the more prone it was to shutting off.
 
ECU's are fairly easy to find. I'm sure there's a JDM wrecker near you. Otherwise, I know that Shine Auto in Underwood here in Brisbane are wrecking 2 SW20's at the moment. Also, you could try www.mr2wreckersaustralia.com.au 

Hmm, think the test drive should have rang some alarm bells. 
 
Hope you didn't pay too much for it initially, looks like its about to cost you a bit now. 
 
Paul Brell is the NSW/Sydney MR2 specialist. Save time and money with misdiagnosis and guess work and get it over to him I suggest.
 
If there's a problem with these cars, he's seen it many times before.