jdmr288's SW20

hey does the owner of the monaro really need a plate to tell him what sort of car he drives?????[:x)] I alway thought the factory badges were enough!

First Post :).
First off, your engine lid with the 2 spal fans is amazing :D. Secondly why did you replace the Old Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust?

Edit: And what were your impressions of it while it was installed and in comparison to your new exhaust :)?

Did I see your note on another post about hassle you had with the wiring on the Haltech? Reason I ask it look pretty similar to the set up I have!

Sounds like a lot of hassle, I have the plug and play adapter as well. Is there any way to find out by visual inspection if the wiring is right?

Does your plugin board have an onboard map sensor, if so, this may save some of your dramas. In James' application we were using the factory map sensor. To do this you had to input the calibration details. Every time the software was reopened then we ran into issues with the map calibration data resetting itself, and had to type in all the calibration figures again. There was also a bit of other weird stuff going on with the fueling, but this can be sorted out once we have a reliable and accurate MAP device. We were ending up chasing our tail as the fueling would go weird and but then you'd look and the map sensor calibration had reset itself to default.

Should be OK, is it a haltech map sensor on the board? If it has the same calibration you'll be fine.

Got James' car to start and continue to run today. It needs tuning though as the base map is nothing less then pathetic. We mounted the IAT sensor up and also sourced him a Haltech 3 bar map sensor and mounted it just under the factory map sensor and wired it in.

OK about time I updated this thing - minus the pictures. I have gen3 rear lights with a very nicely dodgied black centre piece I sprayed using the leftovers in a Brake Caliper spray can. Does the trick! Bought the JIC coilovers off MuMan here and only put those in about a week ago. Massive difference in handling and ride quality. It's severely bumpy and really is too stiff for the street - especially with QLD's notoriously crap roads. Every time I drive I'll end up saying a few choice words to myself in the car about politics, councils and the government in general. Then I'll go onto something like "no wonder manufacturers keep making boats for the street, just to cover up how poo poo these roads are" etc etc etc. [88]

I also have a CT20B on the car now, swapped for the CT26 of course and the difference is very noticeable and the gains are felt very nicely on the bum dyno.
I took it to an actual dyno tonight and managed 169.6rwkw on the first run. Second run saw 120rwkw with the engine check light on. Popped the codes 32 and 52, and also have a evenly spaced 3 beats showing up as well but thats on in the BGB so no idea what that is. Suspected broken/faulty knock sensor. I'll check it out tomorrow and see what the go is.

Current mod list -
Apexi pod filter
3" dump, I'll reserve comments about the catalytic converter for legal resons.
Blitz Nur Spec-R 3" catback system (sexy)
CT20B
Stock boost
JIC coilovers
DBA slotted front rotors
Polished shroud with 2 11" spals - courtesy of Totenkopf.
All alpine sound system
T18 tinted windows.
Personalized plates.

Future mods -
EMS sidemount IC kit - if the ba$1ard sends it out to me (waiting over 4 months for this...) If he doesn't send it out then I'm going W2A
EMS boost gauge (again if he sends the thing out)
Still have my Haltech E8 sitting in my closet waiting for the IC kit to come in so I can tune it.
Enkei RPF1 - either these or wedsports SA70TT's
Overhauled brakes...pads are wearing unevenly. Looking into the Wilwood 4pot upgrade at this stage..not sure what to do with the rears.
New tyres

Let me know what you think - share opinions and shed some light on the error codes!