Dylmrt,
my goal atm is to get as much performance from the current engine as I can safely and the ultimate goal is to buy a second engine to build up and swap in that can support somewhere around 300rwkw safely. So any supporting mods I do now I want to be doing keeping in mind what I will be looking for later down the track.
 
MR2QIK,
I called in to Hi Tech Mufflers on Monday and spoke to them about getting a nice full exhaust made up with dump pipe so that will probably be first thing on the list. As far as a a ebc goes how safe is it to adjust the boost without being able to remap the fuel? And with the IC I was thinking of looking into getting a Frozen Boost 'type 5' A2W intercooler something like Robk has on his.
 
Gatesy,
I had a bit of a look at Geforce performance site and they look like they like to deal with a lot of V8's. It would be nice to have a good tuner local but I am also now thinking I really do want to go to someone who has plenty of experience with the 3SGTE for that added security I guess.

I can't comment on GeForce as I haven't seen/driven their work personally. If you're planning a more hardcore engine, I'd save the entire ecu exercise for then (saves retuning costs). No need for a spare motor, just buy the internal hardware beforehand. The majority of my car's downtime was due to awaiting the arrival of parts.
 
As far as exhaust goes, I'd just grab a nice Jap exhaust (Phoenix Power etc) from Dylan. Would be cheaper than HiTech & "jdm sexy yo". As for the dump pipe, there's actually a significant improvement by changing it, so I'd still do that & sell it down the track if need be. Just make sure you brace any aftermarket downpipe as even the best have a tendancy to crack.
 
No complaints re the intercooler choice either. W2A is the way to go, no sacrifices & I've been running a W2A for years now without any negative side effects. Mine's never heatsoaked.
 
You can comfortably run about 16psi with the stock ecu/ct20b. Can probably go to 18 as long as it's not a hot day, but I'd want to put on a seat of headphones to verify it's not detonating. The issue at that boost with the stock ecu isn't really fuel related, it's ignition timing which gets aggressive from memory. The CT20B turns more into a hairdryer at close to 20psi & beyond. I used to  & preset 16 & 18psi on my ebc when I ran the stock ecu & Blitz K1. Crazy ba$tards like Tristan in WA have run a GT30 @ 20psi on the stock ecu......hahaha Good old days.
 
Those mods are already enough to crack into the 12's from personal experience. Not too shabby.

Don't believe Darton make 3S sleeves. If they do, good stuff. Darton revolutionised the Honda scene with those sleeves & crate blocks. The 98 block you're referring to, would probably be a gen4 GTE block. Maybe hard to find a bare short block as most of those motors are probably still purring along. A bit involved in using that Gen4 head & for the price, I'd say it's not necessary/valuable unless you can get it cheap.
 
As for the cat, I'd relocate it to the mid pipe instead. I run a "test pipe" & can easily bolt up the cat if need be.
 
My W2A cooler is custom fabricated. PWR heatexchanger & a converted PWR/FullRace top/side mount core which was extended/sealed for W2A duties. Bosch marine grade water pump, no reservoir. Aircon has been retained & is fully functional.
 
CT20B's were all ceramic. They won't enjoy over 18psi.

If you want a stronger block just use the 5S one. 

MR2QIK
Don't believe Darton make 3S sleeves. If they do, good stuff. Darton revolutionised the Honda scene with those sleeves & crate blocks.

Yeah Darton do sleeves for the 3S, they are quiet expensive though, around 1k a set plus you have all the install costs ontop of that. There are other sleeves you can get but the only one I've had race engine shops recommend have been Darton. Other brands of sleeves are much, much cheaper however but it would be a gamble to see if they are up to the task.

I have seen a few sites in the US and UK advertising Darton dry sleeves for the 3S block so I hope that I will be able to get some when the time comes. With running a 5S block how much work is involved in fitting the piston cooler jets and preparing the block?
 
I don't think I would want to try pushing the CT20B past 18psi anyway as any increases I do on the stock engine I would like to remain within safe limits for the health of the engine until such time as I am ready to do a full build.
 
Any recommendations on good electronic boost controllers?

With the 5S block, I didn't bother with oil squirters. 3S squirters don't fit & you'd have to retrofit another type, which leaves room for error. It'd take a serious application for me to have bothered with oil squirters (like an endurance car). As far as block preparation, you need to drill/elongate the coolant passages to marry up with head (for 3rd Gen head), and you'd also need to drill to fit the axle carrier. Oil cooler is also a consideration, but personally I eliminated the factory oil cooler & run my aftermarket oil cooler & filter relocation kit. You can read a more detailed account on my build thread.
 
As for the EBC, I still use my trusted HKS EVC IV which I purchased new over a decade ago  Does the job perfectly. Most of current range of EBC's (Jap or local) do the job IMO. Find a bargain & run with that. Blitz SBC comes to mind as good value.
 
You just reminded me (totally forgot), I'm pretty sure I bought a spare EBC when I was in Japan (was a bargain & Option1)......lol

Don't forget to plug the oil feed for the balance shafts on the 5s block unless you get a celica one.