LOL, that first haircut has all sorts of stuff going on!

Bradm

B24
I found this footage of my car before I bought it. It was using the tein 8kg/4kg springs which shows just how much the front dives under cornering. I guess the front 16" wheel probably dont help either..Times look like 1.14.

What springs did you change to?

I have 7 on the rear and 10 up front but its not where I want it to be. We removed the rear bar which created way too much understeer at low speed corners but it has always suffered from that. 
It did run 8 rear and 7 front which was pretty good but still tail happy. Times were 1.08 at Wakefield and 1.37 at Winton.
 
 

Bradm
 
 
 

B24


I have 7 on the rear and 10 up front but its not where I want it to be. We removed the rear bar which created way too much understeer at low speed corners but it has always suffered from that. 
It did run 8 rear and 7 front which was pretty good but still tail happy. Times were 1.08 at Wakefield and 1.37 at Winton.
 
 

I'm at a point with my car that I need to make a decision about springs,  It's basically a stock G-limited that has been stripped out and runs on Federal RSR 215/45/17 and 235/40/17.
Locally our fastest corners are about 70-80km/h    (sprint races and Hill climb)  Any advice on a starting point?
 
Also, stumbled across the post where you spaced out the front lower ball joint to gain some track.   Did that turn out to be a good idea?

For springs and shocks, I did run the Tein at first. These are cheap and a great shock/spring. the other great option is the inverted coilover. Both of these come with (about) a 4kg front spring but these do cause the rear of the car to pitch causing the rear to feel loose. You can disconnect the rear swaybar then fit a 1.5 diff which will settle it down. The other trick is to increase the front spring rate. The SW20 which ran in the Production car series in the 90's ran 10kg (on proflex coilovers) all round with slick tyres. 
I would not bother with the offset ball joint as it was 'vague'. There are adjustable camber/caster plates which are far better options. Do not use 'crash bolts'.
  

Here are some more pic's of upgrades the car.
 

grosso
Looks like you're throwing some coin around on this build.
Steve did you ever set up launch or traction control on your car?
Are you going to run e85?

Everyone throws coins at builds and conversions!
I didn't run launch control as I did not need to.
I doubt I will run E85. Its not really worth the trouble. 98 with some booster will be it.

rikkir
Any chance you'll have it going in time for Mallala on September 26?

It's hard to say. Really depends on timing. If everything falls into place I will certainly be there.
There is still a fair amount to be done before it heads south but I am working on it every minute I can at this stage.
There are some aspects of the car I have to revisit. I have sorted out a few of these but still have a few important ones before I fire it up.
Welding of plates , improving brake pedal mounting points, fixing the mounting of the wing, replace the aluminium splitter with a plywood unit. There is a list with most being fabrication which takes a lot of time to finish.
The first 'A link' front lower control arms and subframe are now installed in the car. That was a treat. I made a error which has handed me a enormous amount of caster! Not such a bad thing. It is ok but it needs some adjustments to get it closer to where I want it. At least its now on the car and I can move it around.
The rear links are fabricated and ready to go. Looking forward to having this fabricated too. I'm confident it will improve the balance and manners of the car.
So yes, will see how I go over the next month.
 
 

Its the 2500. It will be wired up in Melbourne in the near future.
Engine is now in so its moving ahead. So relieving to see the engine finally in the engine bay! There is still a bit of work to be done before it is sent to the exhaust fabricator but it will be there in the a week or two then its off to Melbourne for wiring.
 

Lucas
Steve could you please talk us briefly through your ECU selection/setup? I am considering the AEM Inifinity-6 deal Gouki is offering when I'm ready.

Sure Lucas,
 
I bought a Haltech Elite with harness then a 2GRFE with harness. The Toyota plugs will be adapted to the Elite.
All vvti can be managed, both O2 sensors, MAP sensor which will be adapted to a 'block' with inputs from each throttle body. The CAN can be expanded (as may very well know) with mine running a two port which allows communication with the Racepak dash and one for the O2 sensors.
The reason I did not go with the AEM ECU was the support of it which is very difficult to find. The Haltech or Motec has dealers and tuners on every street corner where the AEM does not. Initial purchase is less but you will loose everything you gained with purchase when sourcing a tuner and having it tuned. You will be paying someone to learn your ECU. This may not always be the case, but I have experience it in the past and will not do it again.
If you know Charlie in Melbourne, contact him for a Elite ECU.