Just a little update on proceedings.
All the components for the engine are now here so the machining of the engine is underway. Hope to see the bottom end and heads back home in a week.
Same goes for the gearbox. Decided to have it inspected while its out of the car.
All the new flanges have been cut out ready for the fitment of the engine before they are built. 
Camshafts will be heading to Sydney by next week. Its a good sign when the guys at Kelford are excited on the end result.
 
I spent some time with a suspension specialist today who has been building linkages for more years than most have been alive. I discussed a option for the car of design for parallel links for front and back of the car. Turns out, its the way to go as you can dial back some of the caster under braking which settles the car. That's a plus.
There was another key point which has a lot to due with the nervousness of the cars. It has to do with the ball joint and it trajectory. Basically, its a compromise which can be fixed so there will be more on this in due time.
The parallel linkage for front and rear will be a bolt in system (I will do my best) which I would like to make available for people looking for a suspension/handling upgrade.
We had a chat about 'scrub' angles. After doing a quick measure on my car, we are out of the ballpark by at least 30mm.. This is one of the advantages of double A link. It seems you can get the scrub angle to a more 'respectable' location. No, I am not bothering with double A link.
 
Pretty happy to see all the brake plumbing where it should be. There were a few niggles I wanted to address which are now sorted. Just need to sort out the lines from the reservoirs and all done. Then the system will be purged of the old fluid and filled with Willwood 600. Its a cheap and well proven option for endurance racing.
 
That's about it for now. Will have some pic's in the coming weeks. 

kameleon
Sounds interesting on the suspension front, good to see progress on everything else too.

Thanks mate, have been a little lazy of late but picking up the pace leading into the trackday challenge and some events in 2015. Will certainly make the trip south in 2015. 
 
I had to do something with the lower control arm links as the Racer X items are not up to scratch. The trailing link needs to be 'binned' as it is rubbish/dangerous. Since I have to replace it, a better option can now be entertained. The point made by the suspension specialist is the location of the pivot point of the ball joint which can be improved. So the entire front strut/linkages/steering/brakes have been removed today. They will be on the bench tomorrow afternoon to take measurements and have the few components fabricated.
It may sound stupid, but I am not comfortable with the handing of the car based on the rest of the car so something has to be done. Neil's figures are showing 460hp and the weight will be 1000kg with a tank of fuel so it will be a weapon but the suspension/handling could end of being dangerous. Really need to have this sorted.
 
It will also have the fibreglass doors and some other mods fitted for MTC 2015.
 
 
 
 

kameleon
It doesn't sound stupid to me, it is your car and if the driver does not feel safe or that it handles well whats the point in driving it?
 
The angles of the suspension of ANY road car can be made better/optimised so as usual post your progress, i will be watching.

Thanks Trav,
 
The racer x links have bent at the clevis knuckle three times so this has to be addressed. That's one issue, the other I noted before.
The sway bar will be mounted on the lower control arm link.
The lower pivot/ball joint will be of a very similar design to the Lotus which eliminates the compromise in the design of the factory design.  
Once its sorted/tested and confirmed to be right, it would be great to sell some kits.
 
I just fitted the Racepak dash today along with some improvements to the cockpit.
Have to relocate one of the roll bars to clear the seat so it can be mounted correctly. Bit of a PITA, but a necessity.  
 
 
 

Yes as you know i changed the sway bar link on Andys car (and another bloke) and it works very well/solves the MR2 problem with bind at high steering angles you get with the strut mounted stock version.
 
I think you need to show people/tell people about the issues with RacerX arms. That is disappointing as well as a costly purchase.

WIDEMR
Were you using the Racer X 'LSX' or 'DSX' ones Steve?
 
Is this just the front you had them on?
 
Saying they have bent 3 times, have you had 3 sets? 

I had some of the first DSX units. The clevis is too small. The original alloy units bent then he supplied steel which also bent. The tube used for the trailing arm is under engineered, the ends have flared out, they come loose quite often. It needs a larger tube/weld in fittings for 3/4 clevis and rose joints.
The other ones look ok but you it is still a compromise on a decent suspension system.
 
 

Some photos of head porting.
Before

After

Exhaust

After

 

kameleon
I thought you saw the setup last time at Wakefield? With your different LCA's you have a easier time fitting your own as you can mount it any way you like, unlike the factory arms that you bolt them to.

No , I didn't get a chance or I simply forgot as I tend to be pretty busy over the two days! I guess you are right about customising to suit what will be installed.

MCT_MR2
Out of general curiosity, are you doing anything to brace the bores or anything in the way of sleeving?

My now vague recollection of these engines was that the bores arent great in these motors, they were prone to wandering and ovaling - as the very least care needs to be taken when boring and honing the block.

While you had it apart, did you have a chance to pick up the block/bottom end on its own?? They are very light until all the sumps, covers and heads are bolted on.

Nice port work btw, good to see the exhaust opened up. I couldnt believe the exhaust ports when I first saw them, they reminded me of a 4a head.

Hey MCT,
just to answer your questions, yes the block is being 'pinned'. The engine builder mentioned the exact problem with other makes of engine then recommended that we pin the block. Top only as there is no need to do the bottom as we are not running boost.
Yes I have picked up the bare block to check the weight. Also have a bare 1MZ which is very similar (in weight)to the 2GR but all the 2GR bolt-on's weigh it down.
He is well recognised for his porting but I will get him to tone it down the inlet on the second engine as it does not need to be as big as it is. It is flowing well in excess of the cam lift so less will not hurt it. The existing inlet ports are a little to big for the intermediate runner. This will be port matched but it could create a small issue with taper so less next time round will be better.
One thing I was thinking of was to oval the exhaust ports to remove the obstruction on the last port. Have you seen this? Any view on this?
I would have liked a bigger exhaust valve too, but its not really required as it is expected to make enough power in its current tune.
 
Thanks for the feedback!