thitch2
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/26 10:04:55
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Steve the nuts you have used to attach your rotor hats are thay interference nuts?
If they are not i would suggest tie wiring them so there is no chance they can come
undone with heat and the differential in thermal expansion between the rotor and the hat
there may be a potential for the bolts to work their way loose.
Also i can't see any thread proturding through the nylok nut on your tie rod end you may want to
check to make sure there is at least a couple of threads coming through the nut you don't need any more than that however.
The distance between the rose joint and the hub seems in the photo to be a fair bit you may want to measure the distance on the origional and compare not that it will change things greatly bump steer is an issue if these are too short you will not have that issue with that set up.
Another tip depending on how low you are running our set up keep the link pin between the shock and the sway bar as long as possible check once you have the car on the ground that the sway bar does not angle up too much. In extreme cases they can force the sway bar to invert thus causing very scarey handling.
I got a phone call from Ian Luff the other day the DVDs are on the way check out the trailer he has on his web site there is a glimpse of my red beastie in the promo.
Hope this helps mate.
Phil
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surok
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/26 10:11:56
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this link explains the pins and floating rotors etc..
seems you dont just use normal bolts.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm
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MCT_MR2
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/27 17:48:10
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Yeah, it is better to use the anti rattle pins (i always knew them as thimbles), but not entirely nessisary. You find more expensive, high end floating rotors use them. They aren't cheap, by any stretch of the imagination.
SOme food for thought though, as there are many different styles of the system:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faq_rotorcomparison.shtml
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/27 21:33:50
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quote:
Originally posted by surok
hah! i thought it odd that you had left at least 100grams of useless weight on each rotor. i would think that you would want to make sure each bolt was the same length and weight to keep everything balanced.
As you know this did cross my mind but I need to get the car to the workshop first, then work on these fine adjustments. I also have to have a closer look at other options for bolts as Im not 100% on the ones fitted. Race Brakes stated they use the same set up but need to research a little more.
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/27 21:37:02
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quote:
Originally posted by MR2QIK
Great work! Really looking forward to seeing this thing @ SuperLap. I sincerely wish you all the best.
I often daydream of joining you track car boys, but unfortunately my bank has other ideas :(
Thanks mate. Make sure you come and say hello!
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/27 21:44:37
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quote:
Originally posted by thitch2
Steve the nuts you have used to attach your rotor hats are thay interference nuts?
If they are not i would suggest tie wiring them so there is no chance they can come
undone with heat and the differential in thermal expansion between the rotor and the hat
there may be a potential for the bolts to work their way loose.
Also i can't see any thread proturding through the nylok nut on your tie rod end you may want to
check to make sure there is at least a couple of threads coming through the nut you don't need any more than that however.
The distance between the rose joint and the hub seems in the photo to be a fair bit you may want to measure the distance on the origional and compare not that it will change things greatly bump steer is an issue if these are too short you will not have that issue with that set up.
Another tip depending on how low you are running our set up keep the link pin between the shock and the sway bar as long as possible check once you have the car on the ground that the sway bar does not angle up too much. In extreme cases they can force the sway bar to invert thus causing very scarey handling.
I got a phone call from Ian Luff the other day the DVDs are on the way check out the trailer he has on his web site there is a glimpse of my red beastie in the promo.
Hope this helps mate.
Phil
Hello Phil, Yes the nuts are interference nuts with 8.8 bolts. I may also loctite these when I torque set. As for the rose joint, they should be OK but I will loctite these too. I think the lengths will be OK. They are within a 2mm of the RCA's. As for the Link pins, they were to short on the first run and experienced the jamming issue.It is OK since I replaced the home made ones with the new alloy units. All good. Finally, yahoo! Finally its ready.Cant wait the dvd!
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/04 19:36:23
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Finally managed to get the car out of the 'cave' today. What a relief.. The brakes are now fiitted and operating but I do have a few issues with leaks but will be sorted next week when relocated to a workshop. Here a few pic's   
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/04 19:37:16
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kameleon
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/03/04 21:49:03
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i really love what you have done with this car.
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jpaudio
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/04/04 13:14:35
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stuka
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/04/04 15:20:55
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looks sweet, very impressive.
what do you see as the real benefit of the radiator duct? have you tested its effectiveness?
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/04/04 16:59:09
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Thanks guys, hope to get to EC on Saturday and see how the new set up feels on track.
Stuka, the benifit of the ducting is less air under the car at speed. Less air under means more downforce.The ducting starts at the bumper, with all air channelled out of the bonnet.Also works like a wing to help with downforce. Its pretty common practice in sports car series.
It also helps with cooling and 'wow' factor.
As far as testing goes, it is very stable up front at OP and Wakefield but my visit to EC will see if there is a advantage in the higher speed corners.
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stuka
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/05/04 10:21:30
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great, makes a lot of sense that, you have done a nice job of it. will look forward to hearing how it performs
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surok
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/05/04 14:32:27
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:D yeah it works! looking great.
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B24
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RE: SW20 track car back on track
2010/06/04 18:17:39
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I had a few runs up and down the street today, getting a feel for the new pedals and brake set up. The brakes are just a treat. The floor mounted pedals are just fantastic. The feel of the pedals when loading up pressure is similar to my old Clubman kart and my old downhill bike. You can feel everything. I highly recommend going down this trail if you wish to build the ultimate racer
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