Bleeding SW20 Brakes?

Frustrating Day. Have fitted Lexus/rebuilt 300ZXTT caliper front conversion and RX8 Sport on rear with late MR2 calipers. 1" Landcruiser Master cylinder. Master cylinder properly bench bled, brakes beld both with and without motor running. Gives a good hard pedal with acceptable travel when stationary both with motor off and motor running. Driving, first application of brakes is not bad and then the pedal becomes spongy and long unacceptable travel. Car has early ABS which does not operate - probably not wired to work. Fuse is OK. Rear brakes appear to be working well but very little front brake. Was locking rears. Suspect was air in front ABS lines. Bleeding thr proportioning valve and bleeding the ABS made no difference.
 
Help!!

Traditional. Next step in the process is vacuum bleeding. If that doesn't work then maybe reverse bleeding. Heard of a case yesterday where brakes from another car were connected to the problem vehicle and "tandem" bled from that car when everything else had failed.

5SGTE
What technique are you using?  Traditional or Vac?  I've had great success with 'vaccing' the notoriously hard to bleed clutch and intended to do the same when I do a similar thing to you with the brakes.

+1 for vacuum bleeding.
 
I also have the early ABS and after swapping M/C's several times have had no probs getting all the air out of the system with the vac bleeder.
 
 
 
 

I agree with B24 about removing the ABS entirely. I did this a while back and the brakes perform great, the stock brakes are really good when ABS is not interfering.

Stuka - what exactly did you remove?

I'm looking at ditching the ABS entirely as the rear are not hooked up (gen 3 calipers) and now in the process of changing the whole braking system to gen 3 turbo system. Did you remove the ABS ecu?