I am retired now so finally can get back, or start my long awaited project.
 
It all started a few years ago when I picked up this.  Some of you will remember seeing it on this forum.

 
You can read more about the specs of this engine in this post.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=95558#95915
 
The next thing I needed was a SW20 shell to put it in.  This took me several years to find and I finally bought this. Little did I know at the time, that this shell used to have the very same engine installed as you see above.  Turned out the shell and engine came originally from the same owner.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=132115
 
 
A year and half later I can now really enjoy putting the two together and look forward to tuning it.

 
 
With the engine now off the stand and sitting on my heavy duty caster engine trolley I torqued up the new Xtreme FTY001CL billet lightweight chrome molly steel flywheel.  The attached steel strap is my way of stopping the flywheel from turning during torque up.
 

Fitting transmission made easy using chain block. Just push engine that's sitting on the trolley towards the transmission.  One man job.
 

Made up two eye bolt flanges to lift SW20 body with my gantry and two chain blocks.
 
Next thing is to remove rear cross member off the rolling shell to allow the engine to be installed.
 
 

Very very nice. Congratulations. Strap on flywheel is perfect to prevent crank being rotated backwards.
A couple of observations. Can the turbo oil feed line be moved toward the compressor a bit to be further away from the radiated heat coming off the turbine housing. On the same problem. Are you installing heat shrouds over the exhaust manifold and turbine housing to protect the compressor and it's hot pipe?
Why are the studs so long that hold the turbo to the manifold? They are b^~~~~ds to get at without extra long studs to avoid as well.
What are you using for oil cooling ? I assume that is a Gen 2 engine. Their coolant pipes to the original oil cooler leave a bit to be desired. Enjoy your retirement. Cheers.

Appreciate your observations.
 
Makes sense to try and move the turbo oil feed line away from the turbine housing.  Yes I am going to have to get some form of heat shielding happening.  I have a border A2A intercooler to go on top of this engine as well to think about so the shielding and its configuration will be complex.
 
The studs that hold the turbo to the manifold are the ones the PO fitted. He went a bit overboard with high tensile bolts and there lengths in several locations.
 
Yes engine is a Gen 2 and having never dealt with so much stainless steel braded hoses before assumed that the oil cooler pipes would have been of the correct type of hose.  How did you pick they were coolant pipes? 
I am very pleased you noticed this.  I just assumed the PO new what he was using.

I think dougs looking for the oem oil to water cooler, I think I can just spy it there.

I am curious where the coolant returning the the thermostat housing is from though. I'm assuming turbo.

No Kris. I'm not looking for the OEM oil cooler.

KOJAB. My question was. Are you going to use the original oil to water cooler and if yes does it still have it's original water supply pipes ?? Gen2 draws water from back of block on flywheel end via a third steel pipe attached to the heater return pipe and the bypass pipe. It flows through HFH to the oil cooler and then through HFHOE to suction side of water pump. That is if I remember correctly!! That steel pipe is often in very poor condition with rust and can't flow properly which will limit the cooler's ability. There is also a nasty little 90 degree bolted joint from HFH to the entry of the cooler. This is also often in bad condition.  If all this has been replaced with flexible hose it might be an idea to check how it is attached to the cooler, water pump and back of block. And just make sure it does form a circuit.
You are welcome to give me a phone call to have a yarn.
Came across a swapped in BEAMS engine that had water hoses all arse about face to the extent that it was boiling it's guts out continuously. No circuit to open the thermostat!!!  Unbelievable.  Rooted it.

Funny how things can sometimes get misinterpreted/misunderstood on the forums!
 
Richard - the braided oil lines from the stock oil filter location (and oil cooler) to the relocation oil filter kit look like they are good quality and they wouldnt be coolant type pipes so all good. They look like they are orientated nicely away from that hot dump pipe. Doug's comment was a general comment about coolant lines, not your oil lines. The steel coolant pipes that Doug referred to look brand new, or else they were painted. But yes, check the rubber hoses to/from the oil cooler. They should be new and as they have really tight radius make sure they are not pinched or twisted after being installed.
 
On the engine photo, whats is the black AN type elbow that on the photo is halfway between the stock oil filter location and the relocation kit?
 
 

First thanks to all that have commented with their observations and as stuka has said how things can sometimes get misinterpreted/misunderstood.  Its only after reading something many times that you realise what it was they were trying to explain. Fortunately for me I was able to speak with Falcon on the phone and we managed to get through a lot of my questions.  His knowledge like many on this forum is a real welcome to new comers to the MR2 engine like myself.
 
Stuka:  The black AN type elbow that is on the photo halfway between the stock oil filter location and the relocation kit is a coolant connection under the thermostat housing which runs to the back of the turbo.
It can be seen much clearer in this link 10 photos down.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=95558#95915