Na gen 2 problems eating fuel and running like a pig

Hi guys
My Na newly acquired has an issue
On Wednesday I'm having the coolant flushed, filled with toyota red and bled
A new thermostat installed and gasket

The timing advanced to 14-15deg

The clutch bled

Throttle adjusted
Going to stay back at work with one of the mechanics and smash all that


But one issue I keep scratching my head at is this:

It eats fuel, but is very very slow has stuff all power down low
And kind of picks up, up top,
Now I was thinking maybe the timing is off?
The only thing I keep going back to is my sensor that plumbs into the intake
Is hanging in my engine bay, so maybe it's running very rich that would explain the fuel and the bad power
Also there is a AFR gauge installed and it reads rich all the time dosnt move but
That may be inaccurate as my pressure sensor is connected to everything but a pressure sensor lol

Anyone have any ideas?

Also what do you mean by this comment?
That may be inaccurate as my pressure sensor is connected to everything but a pressure sensor lol
 
And with the timing just set it at what the workshop manual recommends. Just get it running right than start fiddling with it later. 

Alright then, good luck :)

Also
My clutch literally bites as soon as I put my foot on the clutch
Now ill he adjusting that so it's kind upper middle

Could that be slightly engages whilst driving?

Also how can I diagnose a vaccum leak
I hear alot of hissing
But I mean any symptoms from throttle and revving etc
Like, it has poor throttle response and when it does pick up revs it lingers for a while longer then usual sounds a little like its hunting before dying down

I know these are novice questions
I've done a lot of work on previous mr2s myself and do have a sound knowledge on cars and how they work
Just want someone else's insight :)

Hmm that's a good point,
I think I'm thinking to far ahead and fearing the worst
My tacho dosnt seem to be functioning correctly ATM
Works only a little
So probably a connection issue
Will have an auto elec look at it
Not the most confident at pulling a cluster out I would have no idea
What to look for, ahah so I may leave that to an auto elec
I know my combustion engines but electrics hurts my head
Ahaha


But just going off ear, it definitely does no idle at 750rpm
Idles at more like 11-1300
A semi warm.
And I would easily say 1500 cold

Reading all this im thinking you didnt even look at the car before you brought it.

EssDub
1100rpm hot idle... 15 degrees base timing will do that, without adjustment at the throttle body.  Pull that back to 10-12 and leave it there.  You're probably detonating the **** out of the engine too.  Although I can't recall if the gen2 GE engine utilized a knock sensor, it's a fair bet that it'd be picking up massive knock under load and pulling the IGN timing and dumping extra fuel to compensate and try to eliminate the knock.
 
Other thing is, take off your MAP vac line and clean it out with a compressor gun.  Also check the AC Idle up lines for leakage.
 
As for the clutch, is there any play in the pedal at all? Just undo the hex nut on the back of the shaft and wind it back in a bit to take the bite point a little further down the pedal.  Works a treat.

+1.     N/A SW20's certainly do not like the timing played around with especially if it is over advanced. These are a high compression motor and the computer and timing are designed to get the max out of it in standard form.
 
I don't know about the other problems you are having but the advanced timing would certainly account for increased fuel consumption and poor performance.
From memory correct timing is 10 degrees TDC.