purple5ive
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/24 17:47:55
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well, after a drive of an N/A wit the same model brakes but upgraded pads, i must say mine isnt that far worse off, so it could be me just not using the brakes properly?? lol i swear the hyundai stops better anyday. i will however now change at a minimum just the fluids and pads. if the rotors are warped then thats going to be swapped over for new ones cheers
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Tree
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/24 23:28:34
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I have been recently told newer cars may have a different pedal "feel" to it and obviously the modern day ABS is quite good. How does the Hyundai brake pedal feel? The MR2's brake might feel progressive but I consider that a plus for trail braking hehe. If you think the rotors are not smooth enough then it could be machined as I thought it had plenty of meat, but see what the suspension/brakes guys say. Depending on the condition of the calipers it may need recondition on some of them like said before (I got my pads/rotor/fluid/recon done all at once). I didn't have skill to do full hardcore threshold braking but I reckon once the r comps are warmed up your Hyundai will be humbled LOL. In fact I challenge your Hyundai to a braking test >:D
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Tree
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/24 23:40:26
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If you really wanna max out the stock system try Motul RPF600 or Castrol SRF for fluids coupled with really good pads. Unless you are regularly taking it to the track like Trav said I think you will be hard pressed to find a reason to go any better for street driving (if so you may need to re-evaluate how you drive on the street haha) Also 3 years is old enough for the tyres to get hard even if the tread looks good. Don't forget THEY will be the final judgement of your braking performance.
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purple5ive
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 09:42:35
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well you drove the car, what did you think?? i personally thought mine werent too bad but then again mine didnt have R-comp tyres, but is also much faster at picking up speed. im more concerned about braking in the wet than on a 30 Degree day. stepping on the brakes hard in wet weather is only going to result in one thing.
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MRTurbo
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 09:48:19
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Further to this, on the weekend, I just swapped out my old 7/8" M/C to the later 15/16" one and it made a very noticeable (good) difference in pedal feel (on '92+ brakes). Pedal feels 'harder' now and not spongy and there is less travel and more control. I didn't bother with the late model booster, more work and cost. ABS is still ****e though lol
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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Reddtarga
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 11:01:01
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It should be mentioned that there is a price to pay for that improved pedal feel - more pedal effort needed. But if you like the result, great.
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MRTurbo
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 11:59:22
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Reddtarga It should be mentioned that there is a price to pay for that improved pedal feel - more pedal effort needed. But if you like the result, great. Yeah that's right. I don't mind the paying the price, I actually prefer it over new(er) cars that are FAR too sensitive eg. work Holden Cruze where I nearly went through the windscreen!
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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purple5ive
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 12:09:54
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MRTurbo I actually prefer it over new(er) cars that are FAR too sensitive eg. work Holden Cruze where I nearly went through the windscreen!
i think this is what im having the problem with as well comparing the newer cars and feeling like the MR2 is outdated just stepping on the pedal will stop the nearly 2 tonne 4wd but not the same for the MR2
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Reddtarga
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 13:46:36
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Pedal feel may not necessarily indicate how good your brakes are. At different stages I tried a 15/16" bore, and then later a 1'' bore M/C with my early model small brakes. With the 15/16" M/C pedal feel was firmer with less travel and a bit more pedal pressure needed, but not too bad. With the one inch bore M/C there was a good firm pedal with a lot less travel and great smooth pedal modulation, but a lot more effort needed to stop, so strong leg muscles needed. Anyway, after driving with each of those for a while, regardless of their better pedal feel, I found that in a panic stop situation the stopping distance with them was actually longer than with the stock 7/8" M/C. For that reason I put the stock one back, and I'm wondering whether maybe Toyota got it right after all lol.
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dasic1
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 14:08:58
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So the answer is just go drive a old car for a while. I hate the feel in the HQ and was always bleeding the brakes after every session, until the last race where I had a co-driver and said thats just the way they are. At least it makes all the other cars I drive feel good
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MRTurbo
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 14:56:03
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Reddtarga Pedal feel may not necessarily indicate how good your brakes are. At different stages I tried a 15/16" bore, and then later a 1'' bore M/C with my early model small brakes. With the 15/16" M/C pedal feel was firmer with less travel and a bit more pedal pressure needed, but not too bad. With the one inch bore M/C there was a good firm pedal with a lot less travel and great smooth pedal modulation, but a lot more effort needed to stop, so strong leg muscles needed. Anyway, after driving with each of those for a while, regardless of their better pedal feel, I found that in a panic stop situation the stopping distance with them was actually longer than with the stock 7/8" M/C. For that reason I put the stock one back, and I'm wondering whether maybe Toyota got it right after all lol. I found when I just changed to the later calipers up front, there was no noticeable difference in pedal feel but changing the rears as well, resulted in a low spongy pedal with not much feel. Obviously the 15/16" M/C is designed to work with the '92+ brakes, otherwise I would have retained the original M/C, hence Toyota being correct :P
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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EssDub
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/02/25 17:15:53
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Larger bore in MC = larger volume of fluid displaced. Larger brake pistons = Larger volume of fluid required for the same movement effect. Smaller bore MC = takes longer to displace the required amount of fluid, resulting in a soft pedal. OEM size MC = takes just the right amount of time to displace the required amount of fluid and the required speed. WINNING. Larger bore MC = takes much less time to move the fluid, but the pistons dont fill fast enough, hence needing more pedal effort.
Currently... '03 Spyder 6MT - T28 inc... ------------------------------ Previously... '00 FD3S '94 SW20 Bathurst R '88 AW11 '92 SW20 G-Limited '90 SW20 G '91 SW20 Mongrel '94 G Limited T-Bar '92 GT-S Turbo
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purple5ive
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/03/23 14:34:42
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ok, so i was filling some air in the tyres and while i was doing that i happened to notice that one of the brakes had the backing plate missing and Lo and Behold theres a TRW brake Pad sitting in there. so looks like they were some decent ones afterall and not some ****ty ones as previously thought. this explains why there wasnt much difference between mine and Trees car (his was still better for sure, but i was expecting a BIG difference) so i have decided to flush the whole brake fluid system and refill with some fresh brake fluid. let you know how things go
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Tree
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/03/23 14:58:38
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Yeh should feel a lot better after new fluid. After 3 track days I can say my pedal feels like it has less bite. Haven't checked the pads yet but prob needs a flush now
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purple5ive
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Re:Brake replacement suggestions
2013/03/25 10:25:12
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so the brake fluid has been done and dusted, also did the clutch while we were at it first lesson learnt - never bleed the clutch without keeping an eye on the very very small reservoir. after 2 failes attempts we finally ended up one under the car and one topping up the reservoir as it drained, very quickly might i add brakes feels a lot more better in the limited braking i did on the way home, i havent put the pedal through the floor yet, but feels a bit better. biggest improvement i noticed is now the gears are shifting a lot better than before, actualling getting it into gear is more smoother, i think this has a lot to do with replacign the clutch fluid. the old fluid that came out was black and reservoir was filled with a nice black gunk on the bottom, needless to say with our bleeding skills the whole clutch line has been thoroughly bled a few times over. Special Thanks goes to IAN (redtarga) for helping and showing me how to bleed the clutch and brake lines. cheers
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