SW20 Alignment Settings

That's actually a really good question as i need to get mine set up as well

I found that negative camber works best for cornering and more prone to neutral for aceleration. Bare in mind that with excessive negative camber that would make you car corner very well would have very high wear.
just done my and the final measurements are:
Caster : 4 11
Camber  front : - 1 07
              rear : -1 50
 
Toe front and rear : 0.9mm
 
As said before, I stick to factory measurements but like everything is a personal choice and or usage of the car.
I can scan and send you the results if you wish.
cheers
Pan

Reddtarga
Stock specs will probably give you best tyre wear.
I found that a couple of mm front toe out will give quicker steering, but front tyres will scrub on the inside.

@reddtarga  - (hmm, only just noticed, 2 d's) 
 In your attached standard alignment figures, rear toe-in is 5mm!!  seems wrong, too much and the others who posted here are using around 0-1mm.
 
 Re the scrub on the inside of the tyres - were your camber, caster and ride height stock ?
 All of those effect the SAI which is a factor in tyre scrub, I think.
Also what offsets were your front wheels ? which effects scrub also.  Possibly your "couple of mm" was right for
whatever other settings you had... I'm thinking as soon as one thing changes, everything changes   :o)
I guess that's what track days are for.
 
In general, I realise that some static toe-in is recommended and proven to work, but I'm wondering why ?
Is it because as the car rolls the toe moves out slightly to a neutral 0 ? or does it remain toed in and assists the
rear to turn?  or ???
 
cheers
Nigel

Thanks RT,
I've read and re-read the analyses that Wilhelm racing has done, and now I believe the reason for 5mm of rear toe-in is to compensate for the problematic toe-out movement that occurs as the rear suspension lengthens under brakes, ie to reduce the likelihood of losing the rear. The changes in 93, cause the rear toe to turn in on both compression and lengthening, so would have a different static toe setting, I presume.
Alex Wilhelms adjustment kit reduces the change in toe to about 20% (IIRC) of the stock 91 rear suspension, which would mean that less toe is required for same cornering grip, but benefit in tyre wear and reduced tendency to snap loose as well. Possibly more important for road driving, where unexpected situations can arise around blind turns.
 
 http://wilhelmraceworks.com/suspension-analysis-links has contributions from other people who also use modelling and real-world experience at the track to discuss the geometry. Interesting reading, I'm sure you would have read them already.
 cheers,

Thanks RT, I had considered swapping the crossbrace for the late model one.
Good to know it bolts straight in.
 cheers for now,
Nigel