How to fix the power steering relay, cheeeep
I did this about two months ago and so far so good, so time to share
My power steering had reached the point where almost every time I started the car I had the PS light in the dash on, and heavy as a mule steering. It usually corrected by switching ignition off and on while coasting, the usual problem that many have had and is caused by the main power steering relay.
I didn't take photos while doing this, my explanation of the procedure will have to suffice. You'll need a can of contact cleaner and something that can supply 12v. I used CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant, p/n 2001. For 12v anything from a car battery to an old CB power supply will do, just be careful if it's not current limited - a shorted car battery will get wires hot very quickly and give you nasty burns.
1. Remove the relay from the car. It's in the froot on the passenger side strut tower on a rubber bushed plate. Getting the electrical connectors undone can be a bit tricky, I think I used a small hook shaped tool to release one of them.
2. Apply 12v to the two small wires and verify that the relay clicks on and off with a good positive click. If it doesn't there's no point going any further - it's replacement time!
3. Remove the black plastic top cover by lifting the edge a bit and sliding it back down the two heavy wires. Remove the nuts and washers holding the wire's eye terminals on and remove the two heavy wires completely.
4. Now you'll see what looks like two washers where the eye terminals were removed. These actually have protrusions on their inner edges and bite into the thread of the stud. Using pliers, carefully grip these washers and unscrew them from the studs. The studs will now be loose and able to wobble around - this is OK. Under where each washer was is a spacer and an o-ring, remove the spacers and by jiggling the stud around you'll be able to maneuver the o-ring and carefully roll it up and off the stud too.
5. Clamp up the relay mounting plate in a vice so that the studs are pointing straight up and using a nozzle tube, fill the area where the o-rings and spacers were with Contact Cleaner. Jiggle the studs around so that the contact cleaner runs into the relay. Do this a few times, you'll only get a small amount in each time.
6. Using the 12v source, as in step 2 cycle the relay on and off several times quickly. You'll notice the studs moving when you do this as the internal contacts hit them. This will splash the Contact Cleaner around inside the relay and ensure that it gets where its needed. It will also force the contacts to slide against each other in slightly different than normal operating positions and remove built up carbon deposits.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 a few times, then reassemble the relay in the reverse order. If desired, use a multimeter on low ohms range to verify that the contacts 'make' when the relay is energised. Finally, fit it back into the car and see how it goes.
As with any "patch up" job like this, YMMV. Worth a shot though before you either fork out for a new genuine one, or adapt a generic relay.