Car unstable over high speed bumps

Hi everyone,
Wondering if i could get some advice. I recently went on a day trip down to phillip island and found the car to be very sensitive to small bumps/dips on the roads, particularly at 100kms and over. (Also feels unstable/floaty but is fine on city freeways, etc)

It would jolt the car/steering to the point where the car would leave the road without correction.

Any settings that would help stablise the car?

Heres the details of my suspension set up which are relatively new:
* HD yellow Bilsteins
* TRD soft type black springs
* Cusco front + rear strut braces
* Whiteline swaybars front + rear (set on softest) ~ Front sway bar link end threads linking to the sway bar seem to be a little bent?
* Sway bar reinforcement plates
* Poly bushings all round
* Jic tension rods
* Tie rods + ball joints
* 215/40/17 front +35
* 235/40/17 rear +38

Alignment settings - Set by tyre factory:
Front
Camber(L)-0.46 (R)-1.30
Toe (L) +1.00 (R) +1.00
Rear
Camber (L) -2.08 (R) -2.09
Toe (L) +3.3 (R) +2.8mm

Thanks in advance!

Wouldn't those toe settings make it more unstable?

i think its more a combination of wheel alignment..

Your lhf camber is way too low compared to the other side and when driving n a straight road will tend to vere to the left due to the natural camber of the road. I would increase this to suit the rhf figure. the toe is fine from a standard wheel alignment type ideology. If you want more turn in reduce that figure to close to zero. The closer you go there the better the turn in but the trade off is it is very darty. I have just past neutral (slight toe out)

Tram tracking could be just down to your wheel sizes and offsets, its very common.

You have big camber at the back compared to the front i would back that down or increase the front further and i would be putting the rear toe back down to 1.5 or similar as imo 3.3-2.8 is excessive.

that should make your car more natural feeling and less darty. Have you checked your wheel bearings and rack ends yet??? very very common.



your running toe out on the

Thank for the help guys, really appreciate it.

Seems like the common theme is wheel alignment and Kam, you are correct, the car has been pulling left after 2 wheel alignments at 2 different places (partly to blame for my ignorance on the topic). I'll read up some more on popular settings in the mean time.

Wheel bearings + rack ends are fine. Had Ian do a quick check on my last visit not long ago. (Tho my steering rack LHS has a slight leak ~ very minor)

Anyone know of a good place for wheel alignments in Melb? I tried many with no success. $80 per trial isn't cheap.


Cubits,
I didnt even know what an rca's were until i read up on it last night haha. Learn Something new everyday. Been trolling through our forums for discussions. No, i havent upgraded them but this will be the last option. (After wheel alignment + swaybar settings)


Red Targa,
Yeah, i found the car to feel very different once the rear sway bar went on too. Tried a few settings for the F+R but found pretty much every setting was too harsh for street. Turning down carpark ramps i found the car couldnt turn as the chassis was too siff haha. I'll change the front again to the middle setting and see how i go.

Cheers

Alright, been reading heaps into wheel alignment settings and how they affect the handling.

Found some pretty good info on our Mr2's if anyone's interested. Food for thought for all the people who just bring their cars in for a generic alignment.

http://www.torqueracing.com/mr2suspension.php

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/Mk2_vs_Mk1.html

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25719&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=ce28421ea7eac1bf7d38683d0b72d2f2



Here's the settings im planning to go for. Any feedback would be great. (Semi aggressive street setup, stable, Moderate tire life, reducing under steer at 90 degree+ turns)

Front
Camber(L) -1.50 (R) -1.50
Toe (L) +0.4 (R) +0.4
Castor N/A

Rear
Camber (L) -1.80 (R) -1.80
Toe (L) +2.0 (R) +2.0
Castor N/A


Unless the imoc.co.uk Dino settings are better (Has received pretty good reviews)

Cheers

quote:

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Originally posted by kameleon

toe on the rear to me seems excessive.

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Why is that Trav?
90/91 stock is 5 mm total (2.5mm per side).
92+ is 4 mm total.

More rear toe in helps against braking/cornering induced oversteer due to rear bump steer (toe out at the rear under braking and cornering) I have found.

sx_corolla another thing to check is your engine mounts (front/rear) for wear/tear etc which can give weird handling at higher speeds.

i reckon a ctek battery charger will fix your handling problems.

quote:

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Originally posted by surok

i reckon a ctek battery charger will fix your handling problems.

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