CT20b advice, part number advice and advice while turbo/manifold is out SW20

Hey, 
 
So I've removed my tubular steel turbo manifold and taken the turbo off, dump pipe etc..... as I'm going to fit in the stock turbo manifold to avoid the heat put out by the tubular one. I have a few questions:
 
1. Does anyone know the part number for the hose from hell (coolant bypass hose)? Or where to get it from that won't cost a fortune?
2. Other than that hose and the HFHOE, anything else I should change while I have the turbo and manifold out?
3. I took the dump pipe off the turbo to take for ceramic coating. I noticed that the CT20b ceramic turbine wheel from the look of it has a chip on a single blade, worth worrying about or changing to a steel wheel while it's off? Anyone recommend a rebuilder in Melbourne with pricing or any other upgrades while off? I'm inclined to put it back on as is because I had no issues hitting 17/18psi with it currently. If I didn't see it I would have never known.
 

Available from amayama.com Hfh 16283-88381 ($7) and hfhoe 16282-88380 ($8) plus shipping.

You will need new gaskets for the turbo etc that you have undone. They come with the turbo recommendation below.

A turbo with a chip will generally run unbalance, eventually snap a wheel off. If it's the exducer it will end up down the exhaust, if it snaps the inducer it will end up in the intercooler or engine (bad news). Rebuild on a journal bearing ct20 turbo is expensive by a shop ($700+) and not generally worth the expense when compared to a bolt on upgrade turbo like what's available from falcon creations with a 16g inducer wheel aka highflow. That's my preference for the cost, however different enthusiasts will have different opinions.

If u are running 18psi, I hope you have upgraded fuel system (fuel pump, larger injectors) with a piggyback ECU or you are likely running lean and engine won't last long. Yes it will run 20 psi and feel fast, but it's a receipt for disaster. That's general advice and a dyno will tell you the facts.

Yes - I'd rebuild or replace the turbo knowing that!
 
I rebuilt the ct20b turbo myself with a professional balance pretty cheap. If you want to do it really cheap, you'd just buy a new bearing kit (Melette sell these as a ct26-small rebuild kit), new steel exhaust wheel. Swap it over, then have it professionally balanced at a local turbo repair shop.
 
Good luck!

If someone can rebuild it themselves to like new condition, that's a skill worth good money. Unfortunately a ct20b with a broken wheel, at 20 years plus old is not worth more than scrap metal IMO. I threw away a couple of turbos away the other week. I estimated costs $160+ for a wheel, $80+ or more for a decent rebuild kit, $400+ for a balance at a turbo shop (highly variable amount), $40 gaskets total $680 OR give your turbo to a turbo shop for a rebuild and highflow at $900-$1,200+ plus gaskets OR replace with a NEW highflow 16g inducer bolt in for $750 delivered with gaskets.

Furthering information to boost n tunes: Gen2 run 440c injectors (max out at 12-14psi), Gen3 run 550cc injectors (max out at 14-16psi). Don't get me wrong your turbo will spoil to 20psi if you tell it to, and you feel fast. Your engine will do it day after day - for an unknown time but it's not sustainable as daily driven or race.

In the USA on 93 Ron fuel, in a day time temperature of ten degrees at one hundred meters above sea level, first dyno pull after the engine / intercooler has cooled after extensive tuning, the dyno sheet shows achieve maximum 15psi on gen3 injectors with required safe a/f ratio. However additional info maybe off the short post or dyno shee as to why it can that includes, upgraded fuel system (aftermarket fuel pump, higher fuel pressure / regulator, maxing the injectors like they are 10 per cent larger, even heard of cold start injector being triggered), upgraded intercooler, free flowing exhaust, recent full service, ECU has a rom tuned or piggyback. They may have further supporting aftermarket upgrades to support long term reliability. The tuner may raise the psi to peak 15psi at a small rev range (for torque) the rest of the rev range it is 14psi. My point is there is detail in gaining more hp than turn the boost up.

ATS Racing has a few good write ups and Google is full of information.

Enthusiast advice and Google is just that, advice (mine included). Seek a dyno tune to understand what peak boost you can achieve for your style of driving.

With regards to the HFH. For a gen 3 3SGTE, I'm sure the part number is 16282-88480. This is the part number I ordered in from Toyota. I think the part numbers listed above are for gen 2 engines.

Yeah I was just wanting to see if there was anything I missed but all seems good. The hose from toyota is $29.70. Manifold and turbo studs are about $3 each and the nut for these is $6 each from toyota. I'll just get steel nuts from somewhere else, not paying $6 each nut. Was going to change the gearbox oil while I was at it since I have never changed that. This MR2 has been a good tough little car, it's never not been able to drive home from the track in the 4 or 5 years I've owned it and performed really good. I see so many cars fail at the track.

track_mr2
Yeah I was just wanting to see if there was anything I missed but all seems good. The hose from toyota is $29.70. Manifold and turbo studs are about $3 each and the nut for these is $6 each from toyota. I'll just get steel nuts from somewhere else, not paying $6 each nut. Was going to change the gearbox oil while I was at it since I have never changed that. This MR2 has been a good tough little car, it's never not been able to drive home from the track in the 4 or 5 years I've owned it and performed really good. I see so many cars fail at the track.

I just picked up mine from a bolts and fasteners store for ~60 cents each.