Can I setup Front BBK with Standard Rears?

I have a set of Grex/Alcon brakes & rotors for the front which I decided to grab at a good price. The plan is to run them with the Wolfkatz rear BBk, however the money I had ready to order them is now going to be spent on an ECU and tune so they will have to wait.
 
I'm going to be very keen to push the car soon after the tune is finished and I have encounter fade issues with the stock 91 setup on the track. What I'm wondering is will it be possible to install the Grex brakes up front and adjust the brake bias and have a setup that will brake as well as the 91 setup but be more resistant to fade?
 
If not I'll just leave them stock setup alone but I'd rather have good reliable braking to go along with the increase in power. Any advice is appreciated as I've never worked on brakes beyond changing pads and bleeding the lines!

I currently have wilwoods front and standard rear calipers with a rx8 rotor. I always lock up the front on heavy braking. If you can control the brake bias, I can't see why it wouldn't work. How are you going to control the brake bias?

You could possibly setup the brakes to work with reasonable balance, but you will be far from getting the best performance from them.

It would take an adjustable bias adjuster, and a low coefficient eduro compound pad in the front, and a high coefficient compound in the rear of the car. Along with high quality fluid and ducting on the rear brakes, you'd get away with it.

But carmikey probably has the best thought process on this. What pads and brake fluid are you running? And what kind of fade? Boiling the fluid (pedal travel increases/ goes soft) or pad fade (pedal stays hard, but stopping distance increases)

Switch to a high quality fluid, with a high boiling point. Also once you have boiled brake fluid, you really need to rebleed or flush the fluid. High performance pads are also needed to allow for repeatable braking performance.

Also airflow to the brakes can improve perfomance as well. Whether it is a basic air guide bolted between the caliper mounting bolts or a proper ducted unit , keeping temps in check can go a long way to helping. I dont know if anyone actually makes them for mr2 calipers, but look for titanium anti rattle shims. They effectively act as a thermal barrier between the pad and the caliper piston, which can help prevent the brake fluid from boiling.

http://www.mr2oc.com/59-general-mk2-faq-newbie-center/292856-brake-faq-rotor-caliper-mc-sizes.html

A little info.... What I read into (love mr2 research), bias is factory set to release pressure on the rear when pressure exceeds the setting. A rear upgrade, such as a larger disc, does not change the piston or piston pressure managed by the bias. I can understand that not upgrading the rear (disc size to assist in heat dispersion or hot spots) would be a recipe for disaster if your pushing more "stress / demand" on the brakes.

Be interesting if anyone has had access to actual braking monitoring equipment that gives g and other data. Challenge is it is so dependant on brake pads used.

TonyMR2
http://www.mr2oc.com/59-g...-caliper-mc-sizes.html

A little info.... What I read into (love mr2 research), bias is factory set to release pressure on the rear when pressure exceeds the setting. A rear upgrade, such as a larger disc, does not change the piston or piston pressure managed by the bias. I can understand that not upgrading the rear (disc size to assist in heat dispersion or hot spots) would be a recipe for disaster if your pushing more "stress / demand" on the brakes.

Be interesting if anyone has had access to actual braking monitoring equipment that gives g and other data. Challenge is it is so dependant on brake pads used.

 
 
And tyres and suspension and....
 
So many variables. So back to back testing is where it is at.
 
Bias although a function of pressure applied is greatly affected by any friction exerted no? therefore pad material and disc size do play a part in this also.

Thanks for all the input guys! When I went to the track the first time I boiled the brake fluid and changed it from whatever the previous owner was using to Motul RBF 600 as recommended by a friend who uses it in his Evo which sees regular track time.
 
The car has Project Mu pads but I'm unsure which type as I didn't put them on the car, and I do still run into pad fade sometimes.
 
I'd thought of controlling the bias with an adjustable proportioning valve and moving the knee point as well as reducing the rate that the pressure drops to the rears from that point. I hadn't thought of trying different coefficient pads front vs rear, that's an interesting idea!
 
It does sounds like I'll be better of waiting till I have the rears sorted before installing the BBK's and just trying new pads for the time being.
 
Any suggestions on pad choice? They'd have to be appropriate for daily driving as well as track use so I wouldn't be able to use pads that take a while to reach operating temp.
 
I do remember Eric mentioning having his setup on a brake dyno, I'd never heard of one before, is it done on the car and can they be used to help you fine tune your setup?

I just fitted a set of Delta V big brakes front and rear (supra front rotor / rx8 rear rotors). I haven't had a chance to take the car to a track yet with these brakes or bed the brake pads in however I did take the car for a drive around the block a few times to makes sure the fluid was bled properly and everything was working right. I find it very easy to lock front brakes with this set up. The rotors and pads are both new so hopefully when bedding in and at proper speed the balance comes back to the factory setup but as it is now the fronts lock very easily. The car is a Gen 3 with the factory master cylinder.

Lets not forget that there is no point doing a BBK if you aren't going to put sticky/wider tyres on. If you're already locking up average tyres with standard brakes, a big brake kit will not provide any improvement