Aftermarket Turbo Manifold vs Stock 3sgte

I've got a Gen3 3sgte. I was wondering what difference does an aftermarket turbo manifold make in terms of performance over the stock manifold?

Basically I have a high flow ct20b running around 17psi on high boost. I've got some modifications but in relation to this area its basically an aftermarket turbo manifold with tuned length pipes, high flow ct20b and full exhaust system. Now one of my primary pipes on the manifold runs very close to the silicone turbo joiner and at the track, like Calder 2 weeks ago, it ends up causing the silicone joiner to burst (due to heat) so I was considering running the factory manifold if there won't be a performance drop. So basically want to know if there will be a drop?

Stock manifold would work well for you as you can use the factory heat shield. The manifold I think you might have just creates a lot of heat in the engine bay and possibly lowers performance.

Unless you get a $1000+ ($2000 with the way the Aussie dollar is) on a well made manifold, don't change it. I had a cheaper aftermarket manifold (not done through a high performance specialist). Cracked three times, extra heat to the engine bay. Taking it out and replacing back to stock was the best thing.
Port matched the stock manifold (suppose to help flow by not having ridges on the joining but no data to prove or difference noticed). Makes basic sense to port match (remove cast edges in the joint) or get it professionally done if you want to throw money at it and they will port match and flow test for a better result (however is tiny difference from what I understand).
Boost level does not equal power is what I have learnt. Reducing engine intake temps, air flow efficiency, correct fuel supply, tuning tuning tuning makes the big difference. Look to supporting mods before pushing boost, 17psi does not automatically equal more power than 7psi if not supported/tuned for it.

Yeah I heard that about the ebay ones. This isn't an ebay special from the look of it, hasn't cracked and on the track and is glowing red hot. I would actually like to keep it if it didn't cause an issue with my silicone joiner. I'm happy with my engine package as it is power wise and spool, its just the head heat going to the joiner that is causing my issue. I know the stock one wont cause an issue but I'm not sure if there is a performance drop, never had the stock one. When does a stock Gen 3 start spooling and when does it hit full boost at 13psi?

A basic steam pipe log manifold is cheap to make, quite resistant to cracking due to the thickness of the materials and are easily ceramic coated to assist with temperature management.

As an example, the one I have half constructed for my twincharged 4AG has cost me $80 in materials so far.

Actually if I could rotate the compressor housing it would solve all my problems, anyone know how to rotate the compressor housing? Is it possible on a ct20b?

I can get a photo on the weekend but yes that is what i'm talking about. One of the primary manifold pipes is only 2cm from the silicone turbo to intercooler joiner, so welding a solid steel tube would solve it or if I could rotate the compressor housing to face upwards more, that would also solve it. I'm not sure how the turbo inlet housing is fixed on to the turbo for a ct20b?