Eric
If you need any help or advice Brad, let me know. I've already done the hard yards on this swap ;)

Focusing on getting it all bolted together at the moment, getting the driver side drive shaft sorted, flywheel and clutch should just be a 1MZ flywheel and a turbo clutch.

I'm missing the clutch slave cylinder at, So I need to call some of my suppliers to sort that out.  Once it's all properly mated I'll start thinking about the other issues.  

but any advice is welcomed. 

Ebay, ECU, IMM, KEY, KEY READER.  $230.    cheap enough.

Knightrous
If you need a factory manual flywheel to suit 1MZ/2GR, I have a couple spare.

How much man?
 

Been a while so I figured I'd throw this up.

Cad model of the oil cooler adapter I'll be using.

Thread is O ring sealed M22 x 1.5.   so -10 metric to AN fittings can be used and the ID of the fittings/hoses will as close to the diameter of the drillings on the engine.

After I know it fits right, I'll may make the CAD file available.

B24

Bradm
Been a while so I figured I'd throw this up.

Cad model of the oil cooler adapter I'll be using.

Thread is O ring sealed M22 x 1.5.   so -10 metric to AN fittings can be used and the ID of the fittings/hoses will as close to the diameter of the drillings on the engine.

After I know it fits right, I'll may make the CAD file available.

Not sure if this help but I went down another path for the oil cooler. Using the factory flange, I TIG welded bungs supplied by Earls then had the face machined. 

That was the original plan.   But I've been teaching myself CAD with Autodesk Fusion360 with the plan to design some of my own products.  Practice and prove out ideas on my own stuff until I feel I'm at a level to design parts worthy of retailing.

slight detour from the engine. 

I bought new tyres and went from a 215/40/17 to a 215/54/17 on the front.
Which was enough to make the tyre touch the spring plates.
I had planned to fit coil overs at some point, so this just bought it forward.

I used some weld on sleeves to convert a spare set of legs with Koni sport Yellows.  

The lesson I learned,  Pay more attention to sway bar link rod geometry.
 
Basically in the rush two days before race day, I made the link rod too short and got the position on the mount on the front strut too far forward. the result was the link rod and bar would almost become parallel and any further steering lock would result in the link pulling up on the bar and the bar would go from resisting roll to inducing roll resulting in instant over steer, which spun me twice.

We managed a hack fix on the day by moving the link rod from the stiffest setting to the softest setting on the sway bar.  The over steer was gone and I had 8 laps to get a handle on the car.   With the hack fix and alignment setting carried over from the setup used with stock spring/shocks   I PB'd  dropping from a previous best of 45.15 down to a 44.68.

We have come up with an idea to cure the link geometry problem which we'll get done before the next race. 
Then I can aim for some consistency int he current setup, then start tuning shock and sway settings

Back at the Hill again on the weekend.
Finally found the time to fix the swaybar link geometry that I got wrong when I did the coilovers.
Links are now directly attached the lower control arms.  

Grabbed another 1st in class and a new PB down from 1.04.02   to 1.01.02  for a 5th outright. Considering the competition 5th outright was a decent effort.   

Have two more meetings coming up,  split round Tomorrow night and Wednesday night, (29-30/8/17)
and a two sprint on a section of the Townsvile V8 supercar track.