Supercharged MR2 Spyder build

Thought it was about time i put this up here, I only started this build almost a year ago and its been a very slow progression so far.
Anyways the car:

And the "Complete supercharger kit that came off the sellers corolla" : 
After a lot of hunting on the web trying to find the install instructions that were not included i ended up getting them but could only find them in Japanese, Google was able to translate it but deleted all the photos in the process.
 
Anyways as i had pictures i could run off i started to make sure everything was there and i discovered that two brackets, all the wiring harness but 2 were missing and the fuel management piggyback that came with it was DOA (not like i planned o using it anyways) and other various pieces were missing too.
 
A few weeks later and lots of welding, grinding and macgyvering i had it in and was getting ready to take it to the tuner i had been using
 
Before:
 
After:
 
So on the first dyno attempt the stock ECU prevented the tuner from tuning the uni chip properly due to the Uni Q not having a injector driver and not having 100% control of the injectors, despite the fact I was meant to actually have a Uni Q plus...
 
After lots of saving i purchased a AEM EMS4, a AEM wide band fail safe, DeatschWerks 440cc injectors( the charger was suppose to work on a completely stock corolla) and a AEM water/Meth injection for cooling the intake charged (can't inter-cool)
 
The second dyno attempt was done after a new heavy duty clutch was installed with the help of Joel but i had electrical gremlins half way through the tune with my battery light coming on, i also found out that despite this supercharger kit being designed to only make a max boost pressure of 7.25 (.5 bar), on my car it reached 9.9 psi??? The boost was confirmed by both the EMS4 telemetry and the AEM fail safe built in boost meter, I used the pullies that came with the kit and the charger itself has a electromagnetic clutch pulley so it can't be changed without a lot of work going into it.
 
YouTube video of the car running on EMS4, it it still running quite rich but drivable here
That whine is addictive :D
 
Not long after that video I had to take the entire supercharger assembly out to get to my alternator out to test it as the battery light had started to come on a lot.
All but the rectifier was within spec with the rectifier not having continuity between the B+ pole and any of the screws that connect to the copper windings
 
Charger out:
 
Charger in:
 
I purchased a re-manufactured 2zz alternator from denso hoping that it would fix the issue but sadly after reinstalling everything the battery light still on.
I tested the fuses and the were fine and the fuse holders are passing a current.
It has again been removed and i gave it to my works auto electrician to have a look at to see if the alternator itself is the issue or if something was damaged during the weekend when the motor and transmission was dropped to swap the clutch as the issue did start to arise not long after that.
Hopefully i get news about the alternator soon and i can start to figure out what is causing the alternator not to energize and charge like it should

Following!
2ZZ ?
Had to build a box in rear of cabin where soft-top was?
Is this a race only vehicle?

It appears that the B+ wire and only the B+ wire has damaged as i registered 7-8 mega ohms of resistance and a 3 volt difference which only occurred when the B+ wire was connected to the alternator, it also failed to turn on the light tester
I cut the old connectors off and used some 4 gauge wire to make a new B+ wire and it appears to be charging the battery and powering the car, took it for a 100km drive and the light didn't come one once!
Now i just need to save to get the rego paid (mid November) then order some kuhmo ku36 for all 4 tires and then hopefully third times a charm with the tuning and actually seeing what it can do.

I just glad its hopefully sorted but the results sofar are promising.
Its odd the problem only became apparent when the B+ wire was connected to the alternator

Well turns out that the original bad alternator and damaged B+ lead were the cause of a few other issues like the air con constantly blowing its 20a fuse and the insanely lumply idle the car had but unfortunately it still has the battery light only on startup sometimes.
If i turn the car off then back on 2-5 times it will eventually turn the damn light off and be good for the rest of the day.
Looks like more looking at the 4 wires is needed...

It could be that, ill poke around this weekend again to see if any ground wires are not connected but could one ground wire only affect the alternators abolity to charge?

Maybe my battery is on its way out??? Its a optima yellow top thats about 3 to 4 years old but i was under the inpression that AGM cell batteries lasted alot longer than the wet cell equivalent?

Thought I'd finally update my build.
I fixed the hand brake light that was always on (I dont remember what is was) and the reason the battery light was turning on was a damaged B+ wire.
Since the last post I have completely revamped the fuel system and made quite a few changes
It now has a 340lph fuel pump, I have removed the restrictive return less fuel system and upgraded that to a return one with a boost adjusting fuel pressure regulator.
The entire exhaust has been redesigned (kept those PPE headers though) and it now is way better designed plus it uses a varex muffler so that's a bonus
I have upgraded the stock oil pan to a Moroso oil pan (pain in the rear to install -_-) and also upgraded to a Mishimoto radiator and a 170 TRD thermostat (was a 180)
But most important of all I have removed the biggest issue that plagued this build, that blasted EMS4!!!
As it sits it is currently at castle hill performance having a Haltech 1500 elite installed and then tuned
I will post a pic of the dyno graph and hopefully a video of it during a power run in the next week or so