Can't get my 1991 JDM MR2 to start anymore :(

Hi guys,

Okkkkk I'll try go through this as much detail as possible so I can try get to the bottom of it as fast as possible ;/

Car: MR2 JDM 1991 3SGTE

A few weeks ago my car started misfiring/hesitating as well as horrible stuttery starts (Cold starts have always sorter been rough).
Eventually the car started dying in traffic and when i went to start it all i could here was the starter motor and it wouldnt kick over, however after some cooldown time I was able to kick it and drive it to my mates place. At this point
the car was stuttering and misfiring like crazy and it was a struggle to get it there.
First things first I checked the fault codes, this is what I got:

12 - PRM signal hmmm
21 - Oxygen sensor was unplugged, again wouldn't cause the major problems im getting
22 - Water temp signal...this is all good aswell fans are just stating on constantly
34 - excessive boost (dw about this lol)
43 - Starter signall hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I remember when I use to work at Toyota and one of the mechanics was saying that my distributor was on it's last legs, that and misfiring I decided to replace it.
I bolted the new one in and BAM car started fantastically, however I did have to turn it fully right (at this point I should have realized something was up...but it drove so well hur dur).

Eventually a few weeks later it started to get the same **** happening where it would stutter and not want to take initial throttle until it reached over a certain RPM. It go worst and worst until the car eventually died.

I stated trying to investigate the various fault codes and look any clues, this is what I've done so far:

Tried to rectify code 12 / 43 (which are closely linked) by following the diagnostics tests for these codes.
ie: running continuity tests froma STA ecu plug to ST2 in the ignition, check E1 ....Check STA.....etc etc.
The starter is still working well!

I swiched out the ecus to my Power FC AP Engineering on base map, still go the same problem.....

I have immediately started looking at the timing now and found that both my cams were out 1 tooth ;/ (this was why i had to move the distributor to the far right I guess to get it to fire properly).
Unfortunately the tooth now correct (**** i hate the MR2 timing belt) it still wont go (however does kick harder so it was a problem).

The way it's behaving is as if I forgot to put the seals back in for the injectors (yes I have done this haha and it's exactly the same though I replaced them around 1000kms ago).

Sooooo

The distributor is new.
There is definitely spark on all 4
Compression is good (thank god)
Fuel pump is going and exhaust smells of fuel on cranking (Was upgraded to a Walbro 255)
Checked hardcore for vacuum leaks and shiz..no luck

Really running out of ideas, about to do a test on every sensor from the ecu and look for a 5volt return..

Please HALP! :*(

Cheers guys

Sorta sounds like an ignition problem to me but your saying the spark is there. Is the spark strong?
 
What about checking out the coil and igniter as per the BGB? 
How old are the spark plug leads and dizzy cap?
Map sensor look okay? check voltage on PFC commander
 
With the power fc plugged in you could do a sensor check on the commander. Shows you the values of almost all sensors needed to run the engine. Faulty or non connected ones will be stuck on either 0v or almost 5v.

darkstoria
Thanks for the reply.
Ok, so yeah spark is good and strong (dizzy is brand new, leads are ngk about 10k kms old so they should be fine too).
I tried replacing coil with a spare one I had and had the same problem.
Thanks for tip on the powerfc... I literally only just did the repinning for it on an adapter harness.... fully forgot you can check voltage on all sensors with the hand commander... ill check them out as I was going to do it manually with a volt meter lol.
What volts will be healthy?

 
No idea on healthy voltages sorry. 
 
I guess it depends on what resistances the sensors are putting out etc. I think from memory a non connected or operational sensor is highlighted in black.
I had a faulty map sensor once and it was highlighted black and read 4.98v
Have a read through the page below for the sensor checking stuff on the pfc.
 
http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm
 

 

THA and THE are the inlet air temp sensor and the air temp sensor (post throttle body, IC pipe etc) not sure which one is which tho.
The stock ecu only uses an inlet air temp sensor so the non functional sensor wouldn't be the cause of your non starting issue.
When you install an ap power fc you need to install the extra sensor.