dont bother with mounting tape. just fit by hand remove till you can see all is right.

when it's fitting right, you use sikaflex (like a silicon to stick the panel on (except front quarters and bumpers) and use self tappers to hold it in place while it dries

self tappers almost have a drill bit on the tip.... so u dont need to drill pilot holes.

Righto - progressing with the first stages of fitment, I did a first fix last night after work, in the dark on my car port with gaffer tape - here are some results...

Front guard meets front bumper
front bumper only attached with gaffer tape - bends in to good fit with front guard when manipulated by hand/knee



Front guard (pass.)
decent shape and fit, just resting on the bolt hole ledge under the frunk lid, gaffer taped on, with frunk lid closed - can see the A-pillar lines up ok




Front guard (pass.) meets skirt
Side skirt fits over the existing chassis mounting points at the front wheel arch and sits together snug with the front guard when manipulated by hand - need some clekos to fix as working on my own..



Rear quarter (pass.)
Line up with petrol cap isn't great, but this was the firt panel i tried to tape onto the chassis and found later it should probably be another few mm further forward o fit with surrounding panels. Needs to be pushed/forced to meet the door edge gap, further forward on the panel (out of picture - left)



Bootlid, rear bumper, rear quarter (pass.)
Bumper needs to move forward slightly in this pic, but is only held on with gaffer tape. Pushing the bumpe forward meets better with a further forward pass. side rear quarter as mentioned in the previous photo. Gap to bootlid may be manipulated closer with repositioned guard (further forward) and grinding/sanding off a small amount of fibreglass where the rear guard meets the rear brake light mould



Rear Bumper
As in previous descriptions, the rear bumper needs to come forward slightly to fix over the existing guard mount points - or does it?! I have a few questions regards working the metal outwards to the new guard width for full width rim installation - Will stick to another post thread.



Pass. sideskirt - rear arch fitment
Pass. sideskirt doesn't look long enough to have the front extent fitting over the front guard AND the rear extent fitting over the front part of the rear guard, so I may as well extend it. The lip which sits at door entry also looks to be at a stupid angle, so to kill two birds with the one stone, I will cut the skirt in half, cut off the crap lip, and fit aluminium angle to the correct length for my car and as a shape guide for the lip, then rivet the panel down, rust treat and fibreglass in my own lips, to the right angle.. Unless that is, I get a better fit when i take off the door completely - hard to see in the darkness last night!



Rear quarter
Looks to be sitting too far back in the preliminary gaffer tape fix - gap shows me the rear quarter shuold be a bit further forward



Door won't close yet
Again, you can see the pass. sideskirt is either too far forward or too short to let the door close, and the rear quarter needs to come forward a little



Front guard (pass.)
View from the front - doesn't look too bad. When manipulated by hand, decent fitment can be made with the existing body lines



Front bumper
Looks reasonably good - definitely looks like it fits onto the car, and meets the guard in the right spots. If I pressed down simultaneously on the guard and the bumper the fit is close - but of course, I needed to take the picture!!



Front bumper, Pass. front guard
Gives a general idea of the fit around the bonnet (or frunk lid for the purists) and headlight - Notice the factory Toyota foam sticking out behind the indicator hole - also fogs hadn't been removed and were sat pushed back by the front bumper - i.e. not a final fitment by any means



Rear quarter (pass.), Rear bumper fit
looks pretty good to my inexperienced eyes at least..I fond later that both panels need to move forward slightly, which is acheivable...



Bootlid gap to Rear quarter (pass.)
Slight nudge forward and some manipulation and hopefully I can pull this gap right in close - felt possible when forcing the panels around without the gaffer tape on/camera in hand.



Bootlid gap to Rear quarter (pass.) 2
Same again, bootlid lifting as gaffer tape strength not enough - need those clekos working alone - anyone interested in giving me a hand (or two!!)?!!



Bootlid, Rear bumper and Rear quarter (pass.) taped on
General view from behind - not too bad as far as I can see



Front guard (pass.) and sideskirt
Door wont close properly, as the pass side door trim over hangs the door and catches. grinding and sanding will do the trick I think..




Any pointers, comments and assistance would be welcomed. I am a self-professed novice, so no comment is a daft one - trying to document it in such a way to perhaps encourage (or dissuade!) others, and hopefully show how it was done in the end.

ALSO! - Most importantly, I am looking for an enclosed space to rent for 3-6 months to do the permanent fitment, sanding and primer application to lead up to respray. I am based in Mount Lawley/East Perth, and have a few leads but nothing concrete, so if anyone has a space for, or knows someone in this area with an industrial unit for rent, or even a 5 x 5 shed they could use some cash for, drop me a PM...[?][?]

not in a religious way...!

Lookin good! Can't wait to see the final result :D

that is a pretty good initial fitment.

As per your PM.

With my rear guards, that actually hooked in to the original rear quarter at the boot/tailight area.

what i mean by that is thy hook over the inside corner of the original panel.

here is an old pic i found to try to explain.



See how my quarters are completely sitting over and covering the original quareter at the rear/boot side. Hide to explain, hopefully you can see.

As for how far forward they come towards the door. mine was only a tiny bit urther forward that yours. But, thats not an issue. That area is really eaasy to fibreglass

Also - when you bolted the front guards to the inner frunk lid ledge, did you inlay metal washers into the fibreglass poanels, or just screw through?? I am worried that the fibreglass would snap/crumble around the bolt fixing point under duress, and was/am thinking about drilling out oversized bolt holes and fibreglassing in metal reinforcing washers or summat... Any thoughts?

Dozer - mate, I am a complete novice, but would defo appreciate the help - PM's my mobile - good to hear from you; I'll be on it most of the long weekend, and live Mount Lawley, so pretty close to the City... Collaboration!

quote:

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Originally posted by Daz

One of the guy's builds on imoc showed loads of theses "Clicko" fixings - the post said they were semi permanent or something

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He was probably referring to "Clekos" - temporary fasteners used in place of pop rivets when test fitting panels, etc.



http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/clekos.html

They're operated by a special plier, pull the panels tightly together when fitted and are very quick and easy to use.

Edit: never mind - just read further and noticed you've already tried to get some [:I]