2014/07/11 21:32:52
rikkir
I think I'm a bit jealous....
2014/07/11 21:38:09
robk
I try to use United E85 when possible. I used Caltex E-Flex for the first time recently.
I still use normal premium 98 fuel occasionally. The last time I went to United, I was almost out of fuel, and their E85 pump was out of order. I would've been screwed if my tune was for E85 only!
There is always a different amount of fuel left in the tank when I fill up, so the ethanol concentration after each refill is always a bit different depending on the last time I used non-ethanol fuel.
2014/07/11 23:21:00
dasic1
Ah ok I just got mine going again and considering going flex fuel. Had not considered about a pump not working/out of fuel 
2014/09/15 14:06:19
robk
Just for fun, I recently implemented something geeky and quite useful with my check-engine light (CEL), which is connected to an aux output on my ECU.

I don't have many gauges in the interior of my car, which is by choice, because I like the simplicity and lack of clutter. The only non-standard gauges I have are an Omori boost gauge and an oil pressure gauge.
I recently had an idea of how I could utilise the unlimited configurability of my e1280s Adaptronic ECU, and provide myself with heaps more engine-related data without installing any more gauges.

Firstly, I installed a small momentary push button next to the fog light switch and coin holder, below the ignition barrel. I wired this button to a digital input on my ECU.
I then added some completely custom functionality into my ECU, allowing me to use the push button to determine what the CEL does.

Currently I have the following behaviour implemented:
- Under normal conditions, the CEL will remain on or off depending on whether there are any engine problems. If I press the push button briefly, or restart the car, then the CEL will revert back to this 'normal' state.
- If I hold down the push button for a longer duration, there is a counter in the ECU which increments every 2 seconds, and the CEL will flash for about 0.6 seconds each time the counter increments.
- For each value of the incrementing counter, I assigned an important parameter in the ECU (I have noted this on a piece of paper in the glovebox, but I've memorised it anyway).
- After I choose a parameter that I'm interested in from the list, I then hold down the push button and count the flashes, releasing the button during the 0.6 second flash corresponding to the relevant parameter.
- The CEL will then begin a repeating cycle of flashes to tell me the value of the chosen parameter in the ECU.
- There is a 5 second gap between each repeating cycle, so if I get distracted it's easy to know when the start of the cycle is reached again.
- After the 5 second gap the CEL will flash the number of times corresponding to the counter value, so I can confirm that I chose the correct parameter (ie. that I held the button down for the correct duration).
- After the initial confirmation flashes, there will then be 3 separate groups of flashes to tell me the values of each digit in the parameter value (always treated as 3 digits).
- The number of flashes in each of the 3 groups, will be equal to the digit value + 1 (so a value of zero can still be interpreted).

As an example, I currently have '% Ethanol Concentration' assigned to parameter 1 for the CEL. Let's assume that the current ethanol concentration is 82%, ie. 0-8-2 when split into three digits.
Now, if I hold down the push button for 2 seconds and release it to choose parameter 1, then the CEL will continuously perform the following cycle until I reset the CEL back to the normal state:
[ 5 second gap -> 1 flash to confirm parameter 1 -> small gap -> 1 flash (1 + digit value 0) -> small gap -> 9 flashes (1 + digit value 8) -> small gap -> 3 flashes (1 + digit value 2) ] ... repeating

Obviously this is no good for checking things on-the-fly like a proper gauge, but it's quick and easy to do when I stop the car.
Most importantly, I can access a huge amount of data (including things which can't be displayed on a gauge) with just one little check engine light!

I'll try to take a video of this soon :-)
 
2014/09/15 15:40:16
MR2QIK
Sounds good but I'm confused......
 
What else besides ethanol concentration can you check?
2014/09/15 16:50:43
robk
MR2QIK
Sounds good but I'm confused......

Haha yeah, it sounds way more complicated than it really is. It will all make sense when I get a chance to capture a video and post it up.
 
MR2QIK
What else besides ethanol concentration can you check?

ANY value that the ECU knows about.
If I want to extend the list of parameters, then I just need to make a small change in the ECU configuration to assign the new parameters to different button-press durations.
 
Currently I have made it possible to check any of the following values with the check engine light:
- Ethanol concentration (%).
- The richest or leanest lambda that was reached at wide-open-throttle and 5000+ rpm, during this driving cycle.
- Peak boost (psi), during this driving cycle.
- Peak air temperature (degrees C), during this driving cycle.
- Coolant temperature (degrees C).
 
The values are captured and stored at the instant that the push button is released, so they won't change during the flashing of the CEL.
2014/09/15 17:22:34
MR2QIK
Ahh ok. Useful indeed.
 
Is there a way to output/display those values to say a Win based tablet for example via the Adaptronic software? That'd be handy.
2014/09/15 18:22:36
robk
Yes there are many other ways of displaying gauge data from Adaptronic ECUs.

The good thing about my setup is that I didn't have to do anything apart from modifying the ECU configuration. As I said before, it was just a fun little project to modify the ECU configuration and make this work.
2014/09/18 08:02:45
robk
Here we go, yesterday I took a video of the CEL functionaility:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCc0cK5uDaY&feature=youtu.be
 
2014/10/26 23:43:48
robk
Last month on one of the MR2 club runs, I made a silly mistake in a carpark and subsequently put a big crack in my Aeroware lip from Shine Auto Project (I hit one of those concrete stopper things at the front of the car). I recently replaced the damaged lip with another Aeroware lip, but this time it's polyurethane instead of fibreglass. I'm very happy with it!
Normally I may have repaired the damaged lip, but this for-sale thread popped up coincidentally at just the right time so I couldn't resist:
http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=114160
In case anyone is interested, the fibreglass lip is repairable, with a vertical crack which can be patched up (and a few other hairline cracks which are only visible up close and are typical for a used fibreglass front lip). If anyone wants to buy it off me for a cheap price and repair it themselves, let me know and I can send you some photos. It would be much cheaper than buying a brand new one.
 
While my car was up on jackstands, I took the opportunity to finally replace my 24-year-old sway bar bushes at the front, because they were binding so badly that it was causing a creaking sound and making it slightly difficult for the suspension to move freely. I replaced them with SuperPro polyurethane ones off eBay, which came with a tube of suitable grease. At first it looked like the slot in the bushes would never be able to close completely, but once I torqued the bolts for the saddles around the bushes, the fitment was perfect and the sway bar was able to move very easily with the end links disconnected.
I may be imagining it, but it feels like those 2 bushes made a big difference overall. I went for a test drive after it was done, with the windows down so I could listen for noises, and did lots of aggressive little darting turns on an empty road. The car has never felt so sorted and smooth! I couldn't hear a single noise from the suspension, just the sound of the tyres gripping the road nicely.
 
I also replaced my 24-year-old wiper blades. The rubber blades themselves have obviously been replaced many times, but the metal part of each blade was still original. Mine had the early screw-type attachment to the wiper arm, instead of the modern hook-type, but luckily I found some Trico blades which included screw-to-hook adapters. The driver-side wiper blade no longer has the wind deflector that the original one had, and the passenger side blade is also a bit different to the original, so I hope they will be OK next time it rains. Whatever happens, at least I can now use hook-type wiper blades in the future.
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