The car has been running just flawlessly. The Presidents Run last Sunday was a good test to see how the engine was going to perform and she passed with flying colours.....she didn't skip a beat!
 
She went back into MRC on Monday to re-adjust the boost controller and for another dyno run. The boost controller is still an issue as it doesn't seem to want to push pass 13psi even though the duty is dialled up to 70% but every now and again she goes up to 14psi. Nonetheless she ran 155rwkw with 376NM of torque; the biggest gain being the torque figure. This boost controller will do for the time being but I will change it out in the coming months so i can get a more favourable figure.
 
 
Since she seems to be running great I will share my wiring will everyone. This is for anyone doing a Gen 3 NA to a Gen 3 turbo conversion who is retaining the NA body loom. 
 
Re-pinning the NA Body ECU connector.
 
BATT (White/Red): Pin 2 to Pin 1
W (Green/White): Pin 4 to Pin 5 
ELS (Black): Pin 5 to Pin 2
ACT (Pink/Green): Pin 6 to Pin 21
AC1 (Black/White): Pin 7 to Pin 10
SP1/SPD (Purple/White): Pin 8 to Pin 9
STA (Red): Stays at Pin 11
+B (Black/Yellow): Stays at Pin 12
STP (Green/White): Pin 14 to Pin 4
PSCT/ATS (Blue/Yellow): Pin 17 to Pin 8
 
FC (Green/Red): Pin 14 – This wire will need to be added into the connector as it is not present on NA's. This wire will need to be run through the firewall into the engine compartment and spliced into the green/red wire going into the Circuit Opening Relay located in the engine bay fuse box. This is critical for engine function as this wire fires the fuel pump. 
 

EA1 Connector: This is completely plug and play on Gen 3's provided you are not wanting to use the stock boost gauge on the turbo gauge cluster. Otherwise a wire will need to be added in and run through to the cluster itself (a waste of time IMO). 
 
The two white connectors in the engine bay fuse box are plug and play also. No need to worry about them. 
 
As i said above this is works for Gen 3 NA to Gen 3 Turbo conversions if using the NA body loom only!
 

Congrats that your engine is running well and healthy :)
 
Why not just use a manual boost controller? A Turbosmart boost tee for $100 would do the trick and provide pretty solid boost control?

Thanks man! 
 
I initially thought about it using a manual controller though I would really like to have in cabin adjustability and a boost gauge all in one tidy unit but it is definitely an option.

Hey Declan, so glad to see that your car is going so well mate. Looking forward to seeing the power figure once you have the boost controller dialed. I also owe you a bottle if coolant haha.

Thanks Shamus.  I would be happy if i was able to get some where between 186-205rwkw. 
 
Don't worry about the bottle of coolant mate, its all good haha. 

The little beast has continued to run smoothly over the last few months. So there hasnt been much to update unfortunately. 

Until a couple of weeks ago where I had my radiator core blow out. This radiator was only 10 months old and was put in with the rebuilt NA engine I had. I suspect the reason for its failure was purely the fact that I went cheap and tried a chinese made radiator, however i did check for electrolysis nonetheless. 

I was lucky that the core failure wasnt large enough to cause the engine to overheat and no other damage cause. So figuring that its wasnt worth claiming on the warranty that this radiator came with, I went with a PWR unit. 

 
 
The workmanship put into the unit is second to none. I am very happy with how its performing so far, but I suppose time will tell how good it really is. 

The only real pain with the unit is that they used a JIC fitting where the bleed valve would be at the top of the radiator and they didnt provide a blanking cap for it. Its not such a big deal but just means I have to make a trip out to Pirtek or Hydraulink for a $5 cap. 

Sweet mate. +1 on the PWR radiator.
 
Gotta love the Gen 3s ay, smoothest running engine I've known.  You should post up some pics of your engine bay :)

Absolutely, its such a nice engine in and out of traffic. 

Nothing special going on inside the engine compartment but here are a couple of photos as requested

Over the last few weeks I have finally got around to getting the turbo engine lid from the half cut fixed and resprayed. I must say the turbo lid really completes the look. The lid has had the water guard removed as it was beyond repairable which isnt such a bad thing as the added heat dispersion is useful in itself. But I did encounter a problem when it came to washing the car and that was even with being careful to minimise the amount water that enters through the lid, there was still enough for water to get pass one of my HT lead seals which resulted in the engine only running on three cylinders. Easy fix nonetheless but still something I have to be wary about. I am thinking a good dose of water dispersement throughout the engine bay might be the way to go before washing her.  

A folded large bath towel on top of the engine before a wash works :)