If it is electrolysis, there are instructions with pwr radiators that give you a test procedure and a maximum value (unfortunantley too late in this case.)

Are all your rubber mounting grommet s etc in good condition? They arent vibrating themselves to death?

I've still got the instructions that I received with the radiator and I did perform the test before it was installed. At the time there was no sign of electrolysis but thats not to say I did it right or that it hasnt changed in the mean time.
  
I havent had a proper look at the rubber mounts but from what I can see without taking them out, they seem fine with no cracking etc. Ill definitely have a better look once the radiator is removed. 

A decent amount of progress has happened over the last couple of weeks. 

I changed out the timing belt for another new one as I wasnt happy with it. 

 
Fitted the refurbished radiator and fuel tank.


The inside of the refurbished tank


A Walbro 255 fitted

 
The tank back in the car


All cooling pipes flushed and new hoses fitted

 
Swapped out the Gen 2 igniter and coil for the Gen 3 units so the coil to distributor HT cable would fit. 

 
Engine on its way to its new home.

 
Reusing the 2 1/4" cat back from when the yellow one was NA.


 
The car is currently ready for the wiring to begin which does seem like it will take a little while. Reason for this is that its not only the ECU connectors and the EA-1 connector that will need re-pinning. The EA-1 will need to be cut and have a Gen 3 connector put on to match and the other EA connectors in the engine bay fuse box will need almost an entire re-pin. 

Taking a break from the red car. I have tested for electrolysis in the PWR radiator. 
Fortunately or even unfortunately the result came back with no stray currents whatsoever. 
Even tested at microamps with still not a stray current present. 


 
Anyway I swapped out the PWR unit for a stock Gen 3 radiator and have now decided to run 50/50 mixed coolant to combat heat just in case that was the cause due to sitting in bumper to bumper traffic regularly. 

Stock radiator just about back in place

 
So currently the yellow deuce is in the midst of having the cooling system bled. But is not quite perfect yet as it has a high and unstable idle which is quite unpleasant for myself and other drivers on the road  But will hopefully have it sorted out this coming weekend so that its ready for the next club run. 

Deco
 
  

For the Australian delivered GT's the car featured an alarm with internal radar sensor. If the radar senses movement it will go off, mainly for the targa tops being off. You can vary the range of the sensor from light to ultra sensitive by using the remote control if you pressed a sequence of buttons. Also your radar sensor is able to tell you if anyone has approached your car whilst parked once activated if you look at the LED when you get in. The sensor also warns people to move away from the car and will beep I think twice, if it picks up the movement outside.

 
Anyway I swapped out the PWR unit for a stock Gen 3 radiator and have now decided to run 50/50 mixed coolant to combat heat just in case that was the cause due to sitting in bumper to bumper traffic regularly. 

Stock radiator just about back in place



 
Hey Deco
 
Be careful with your coolant dosing as sometimes with some coolants overdosing can be as bad as not running any coolant. 
Some effects of coolant overdosing are:
Chemical deposits, precipitates and gels that reduce heat transfer, can cause water pump seal damage or failure and system plugging of coolant passages and radiators.
overdosing can also cause high nitrite, high conductivity and possible high PH.
 
I highly recommend following the coolant manufacturers guidelines when it comes to dosage as I have seen quite a lot of problems caused by overdosing cooling systems.

Thanks mr_mi6. Had a feeling it had something to do with the OEM alarm system.

Nik_Lee
 Hey Deco
 
Be careful with your coolant dosing as sometimes with some coolants overdosing can be as bad as not running any coolant. 
Some effects of coolant overdosing are:
Chemical deposits, precipitates and gels that reduce heat transfer, can cause water pump seal damage or failure and system plugging of coolant passages and radiators.
overdosing can also cause high nitrite, high conductivity and possible high PH.
 
I highly recommend following the coolant manufacturers guidelines when it comes to dosage as I have seen quite a lot of problems caused by overdosing cooling systems.

 Hey Nikayal 

Thanks for the concern.  
The car should handle the 50/50 mix fine. The 50/50 mix isnt a particularly strong mix and I have used it successfully in some of my race bikes where the running temperatures are a lot less and have a lot smaller water galleries. I cant find any information in the BGB I have about recommended coolant dosage for the 3SGTE but the AW11 guys are recommended in theirs to run at least a 50% mix with no more than a 70% mix. In theory 50% shouldnt do any damage to the 3SGTE but Im happy to be a Guinea pig anyway

I shouldnt have any trouble with nitrite either as the coolant Im using is an OAT coolant which is amine, borate, nitrite, phosphate and silicate free.  Same standard as what the old red coolant was but now days just about every major coolant manufacture provides OAT coolant in all colours. 

It's not a recommendation of coolant mix in relation to the engine you need to go off the recommend coolant mixture provided by the coolant manufacturer as each coolant manufacturer will have different recommendations for their coolant.
We not only do oil analysis at work but coolant analysis as well and it's a commen problem seeing people overdose their coolant systems thinking it will help improve the ability of the coolant but it actually does the opposite.

Okay I understand what you mean. In this case I havent mixed it myself, its pre-mixed at 50%. I dont have the patience to mix the capacity of cars. 
 

Ah ok well if it's premix than that's ok.

Over the last two weeks I have began doing the wiring. Re-wiring the ECU side of things was fairly straight forward and was really just done to matching the names that were similar across all the connectors. 

 
After working the ECU mostly out I began on the engine bay fuse box. This was a tad more difficult as I had no information on what was doing what. I used a spare Gen 3 fuse box to note the differences and make such changes. Which ended up only being a re-pin of one wire on a connector and adding in and extra wire amongst some of the relay wiring.

  
 
This is the added in wire. 


 
We started up the car for the first time this Saturday and she ran beautifully first go with no issues other than blowing a few fuel return lines as it couldn't keep up with the added pressure of the Walbro. However that was sorted quickly with some decent clamps. 

Unfortunately since then she has started running not so good. Developing the issue of running for anywhere between 2 to 15 minutes before it consistently blows the EFI fuse. There is such a large draw that the heat produced is also warping the fuse. Now I'm not sure if I have accidentally screwed up my wiring somewhere or if the Walbro has too much draw for the system but something is certainly not right.