Not yet
if I did that, wont the ECU have a cry and run it in low boost mode all the time? I don't care about the stock boost guage.

I should probably wire in my $20 FCD I made, and unplug the line (looks less dodgy).
 
but with non-standard IC pipes, the engine now looks modified..
 
doesn't help I have a boost solenoid in plain sight :P

Nope! take the pipe off the MAP sensor and plug it (I used a bolt screwed it down and used the standard hose clamp..... 
 
takes 5 mins to test, basically cause the MAP sensor is still plugged in, it will run whatever boost without putting the car into protection mode.
 
Interestingly enough I'm 99% sure the ECU works like this.
 
when the AFM detects a certain amount of air passing through, it periodically checks the MAP sensor. but until the AFM reaches a certain threshold, then it won't do anything.
I think this, because boosting fine, with the PIM wire cut (ie sensor electrically unplugged, is fine, until it reaches a fairly high pressure in the mani - so it's either detecting this based on the air flowing, or there is another pressure sensor somewhere...
 
This is just a theory tho!
 

ok
So you're saying if I leave it plugged in and just disconnect the vac line from it and plug it, it wont know any different? i'll do it soon.
i really should get some kind of boost controller soon though.
 

yes :) that's how mine is now. I don't have problems hitting cut anymore :) the only problem is it looks dodgy in the engine bay.  
 
I've built the FCD circuit shown here: http://toymr2.tripod.com/fcd.html  previously.  However as I was getting fuel cut with the vac line blocked I didn't install it, cause I knew something else was wrong.  Now I've found the cut loom wire, I'll probably install it properly and retain an 18psi limit (or something like that).
 
I HIGHLY recommend getting a boost controller.  The AEM I got, I'm quite happy with.  If you're looking for a wideband I also recommend the AEM wideband - very simple to install compared to the Innovate ones (I helped my friend re-wire his innovate in his NA-T supra last night - ARGH it was a MESS!!!)
 
but lots of solder, heat shring, and beers later it was fixed.  and another issue we had was one of the wires wasn't terminated correctly, which also caused problem BAH!! so happy with my AEM :)

Broke traction under acceleration in the dry last night at 14.2PSI :D and was very happy with how the car took it, back kicked enough to notice it, but didn't snap oversteer like I thought it would! 
 
temp was kept low by the DC and IC :)  I'll test fit the ECU when I get time (maybe over the weekend! :D  Struggling to find time to get much done this week - having to sort the Supra out to be picked up. 
 
edit: what is the max I should be running boost at on a std engine? (I currently have high boost set to around 14.0-14.5ish)

this may help:
http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

ok pod filter is in a and ghetto installed, swapped locations with where i had the catch can. the sound is very different to the previous setup....
 
now to complete servicing, i just need to flush the coolant... fun stuff. thats a next weekend job.  I also need to swap the plugs over.  the current ones are fowled and are the Iridium BKR6EIX.   i'm going to go to copper plugs  NGK BKR7E 6097 Gap .028.  i'm getting hesitation under full acceleration (i.e. ecu is retarding timing due to detonation..)
so another weakend on the car, and another trip to repco!
 

uncovered another problem today :( (and one i hand't previously mentioned.)
The other day i noticed the temp? sensor (the bottom one, next to the waste gate to TVSV connector).
 
So after changing the oil (i didn't do the coolant) and having a look at the plugs. I went to go for a test drive.  Was fine for the first two minutes.  Then i noticed the clock was starting to dim.  Another 5klms, and it was really dark, then the radiator light and battery light came on.  So i pulled over (not at home - big mistake), turned the car off (thinking it may have been an overheating issue), well it wasn't.  Checked the engine, couldn't see anything too bad - engine wasn't hot, turbo was (duh), no melted wires.
 
Couldn't start the car again, it just made a ticking noise like i didn't have enough charge. Had to reverse roll start it (i was pointing up a hill), which once it clicked over was fine.
 
Drove carefully home and up the driveway.  Tried to start it again - same problem. multi-metered the battery - 11.57v and the voltage terminal in the engine bay - ditto.
 
Charging the battery now.  I hope the DC fan and the huge amp aren't drawing too much power and thus not allowing it to charge. 
 
Didn't get time to change the coolant today - will do that another day.
A pic of my ghetto install:

 
 

Get some Feds RS-Rs on the back and you wont be breaking traction...just whacked a set on sat and they grip like **** to a blanket...even when I had that blat against an Evo 6.5! ;)
I can plant it around corners now even with an open diff like mine and it wont light up any more lol
 
Coolant flush isn't too bad if you follow the BGB, just make sure if there is green ****ty coolant in there and you want to use the proper Toyota Red stuff (recommended) flush it out properly with water for a while first.
 
I've got NGK IX Iridiums in mine and they haven't given me an issue in 2 years. Well worth the money.
 
Re boost, since you've got an upgraded IC, you should be able to run more than 15 psi lol but probably not worth it on a stock CT26 :P
 
Alternator could be on the way out??