400kW from a 3SGTE is an absolutely enormous ask - even the 503E never reached levels like that. 
 
Unless a tuner has personally set up that specific motor and achieved that kind of power, i'd be laughing at them.  You have enough trouble dealing wiht 300kW as is on an already-strung out engine.  You should bring your lofted expectations down to a more reasonable and realistic level, before you really grenade that thing and start wondering where you went wrong.
 
Get it tuned to 250ish kW on E85 and low boost and learn to control that.  The engine would probably outlast you/ownership of the car.

Keeping in mind that 400KW is totally absurd in a car such as the SW20 in the first place.
Remember the 2 Supras that have been to the past 2 MTC's? Both broke within half a day of racing, they were putting out more power than yours is (or could be), but were MUCH more extensively modified to handle the power they had. And they still blew difs, clutches, snapped flywheel bolts.
Rob's car pulls ~300rwKw on 98RON if i remember correctly, and that's in a car that's had more money than I care to imagine poured into it, to ensure it will do that consistently.
 
Unless you're planning on spending even more big $$$ on building that engine from scratch, i'd tone it down to 220Kw at max, and learn to handle the car before thinking of that kind of power. On top of that, you'd need to also overhaul brakes, suspension and the fuel system to cope with the power, and hence, speed increase you'd be dealing with
Aside from intake/turbo/exhaust, your base engine and gearbox build are similar to my new SW, but because of the power, you've gotten less k's out of it than i have in mine in the span of 4 months. I don't treat my cars gently, either, as a few people can vouch for. I'm pulling 165-170Kw at the absolute maximum, and that's MORE than enough to have great fun on the track, and even keep it affordable for driving to work every day, which I do.
 
If you chose to run E85, you'd need to take many things into consideration, and I'm not the person to go giving advice about it, since I've never dealt with it myself, and probably never will, but you'd need a LOT of it to make it through 3 days of racing, assuming your engine survives the whole 3 days in the first place.
 
If I were in your position, personally, I'd be more inclined to find a cheap N/A, probably a Bathurst, as they're excellent cars with reliable engines, and learn how to handle the chassis first.
I did that for 2 years, drove about 70,000k's mixed daily driving, hills and track work, and learned the car inside out. It will help prepare you for the way the car reacts when you get into a car with some proper power.
 
All the power in the world won't make you quick if you can't drive it in the first place
 

I happy to keep it around the 300 rwkw on e85 good for Mallala and to play it safe with a reliable tune. Around 400 rwkw is was what the Turner said, not me. When I take it there I will ask the set up a 250 rwkw, and with 300rwkw over take option which is already wire up with a push button on the steering wheel. Also trying to setup launch control function. Which would also give me traction control if I wish. He's very well known in Adelaide for tuning 3sgte, He has a standard 3sgte with standard cams with ecu on e85 with 240 rwkw in a sprinter doing 1.14 at Mallala race track. If he is full of it I will soon find out when I see him face to face.

No 3SGTE with standard cams will push 240 at the wheels, period.  Tell him dyno or bull**** :D
 
Also, how is launch control going to help traction when trying to put down laggy power at a corner exit?
 
Soo many questions...

Randomity
Keeping in mind that 400KW is totally absurd in a car such as the SW20 in the first place.
Remember the 2 Supras that have been to the past 2 MTC's? Both broke within half a day of racing, they were putting out more power than yours is (or could be), but were MUCH more extensively modified to handle the power they had. And they still blew difs, clutches, snapped flywheel bolts.
Rob's car pulls ~300rwKw on 98RON if i remember correctly, and that's in a car that's had more money than I care to imagine poured into it, to ensure it will do that consistently.
 
Unless you're planning on spending even more big $$$ on building that engine from scratch, i'd tone it down to 220Kw at max, and learn to handle the car before thinking of that kind of power. On top of that, you'd need to also overhaul brakes, suspension and the fuel system to cope with the power, and hence, speed increase you'd be dealing with
Aside from intake/turbo/exhaust, your base engine and gearbox build are similar to my new SW, but because of the power, you've gotten less k's out of it than i have in mine in the span of 4 months. I don't treat my cars gently, either, as a few people can vouch for. I'm pulling 165-170Kw at the absolute maximum, and that's MORE than enough to have great fun on the track, and even keep it affordable for driving to work every day, which I do.
 
If you chose to run E85, you'd need to take many things into consideration, and I'm not the person to go giving advice about it, since I've never dealt with it myself, and probably never will, but you'd need a LOT of it to make it through 3 days of racing, assuming your engine survives the whole 3 days in the first place.
 
If I were in your position, personally, I'd be more inclined to find a cheap N/A, probably a Bathurst, as they're excellent cars with reliable engines, and learn how to handle the chassis first.
I did that for 2 years, drove about 70,000k's mixed daily driving, hills and track work, and learned the car inside out. It will help prepare you for the way the car reacts when you get into a car with some proper power.
 
All the power in the world won't make you quick if you can't drive it in the first place
 

This car was 306 on 98 ron as well. The fuel is already setup up for it.  I have up graded the brakes and Suspension and the motor was build by Lewis engines there has been at about $20,000 spent on this motor alone not counting on the rest of the car, As you know I have 2 Sdub This one will end up a circuit car plan to put a cage in and floating hub with six pots brakes, willwood pedals etc. And the other sdub will be my daily.
 
Just a little list of mods:
TRD Engine Mounts, ST Sway Bars, Tanabe Front Under Brace Bar, Mishimoto Alloy Radiator, Mishimoto Fans and Shroud, 1mm o/s ferrea comp plus valves, ATS Racing inner CV joints, Mueller Lightened Flywheel, RPS Max 6-puck clutch, Ferrea valve locks, ferrea valve seals, Gsc 274 degree cams, New OEM Retainers, RacerX Alloy Alternator Bracket, Speed Source Top feed rail, 1000cc Injectors, Few bits of new interior plastics, Aeromotive 340lph intank fuel pump
and last but not least, a new Precision Dual Ball Bearing Billet 6262 Turbo, .63 A/R T3 Flange, SP Cover
- JE Pistons - Eagle Rods
- ACL Race Bearings - ARP Stud throughout
- Ferrea Comp plus 1mm o/s valves - Apexi 2.2mm HG
- Engle Valve Springs - Manganese Bronze Guides
- OEM Retainers - Ferrea valve seals + retainers
- 1zz Shimless buckets - GSC 274 degree cams
- Fidenza cam gears - Ported + Polished head
- Moroso Alloy Sump - Gates Blue Timing Belt
- Ats racing intake + exhaust manifolds - 90mm BMI Throttle body
- Precision 6262 w .63a/r v-band dump - Tial external 38mm wastegate
- 3 inch s/s exhaust - W/a intercooler setup with -12 braided lines
- RacerX COP Setup with 60-2 Crank sensor - 1000cc RC Top feed injectors
- Speed Source Top feed rail - Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump
- Sard Adjustable fuel pressure reguator - Mishimoto x-line radiator w/fans and shroud
- RPS 6 puck srung clutch - ATS Racing CV Joints -MuellerAlloy flywheel - 4 inch KO Intake with k&n filter
- Turbosmart BOV - Zeintronix Zt-2 Wideband kit with LCD display
moroso sump
 
I think this car is setup for it!

No different to before....yet the car shat itself under the first real load it was subjected to. Doesn't sound very well 'set up' for it at all.

EssDub
No different to before....yet the car shat itself under the first real load it was subjected to. Doesn't sound very well 'set up' for it at all.

Break down was cause by a $2 plastic tee piece and ecu fail safe mode was set wrong. I hope to have this car bullet proof from he on in. I have had time to go over the build myself personalty and correct problems.

EssDub
Also, how is launch control going to help traction when trying to put down laggy power at a corner exit?
 
Soo many questions...

Looking at installing 1.5 LSD diff and changing the ratio that will fix laggy power at a corner exit. Using launch control for hill climbs not using it for circuit racing. Looking at setting up the ecu with boost levels per gear option. I need sensors for the rear wheels which I can get from Aptronic , This is my next year project. I will see how it go first with the new tune. I may happy with it and save some money.

Just spent 6 hrs with my tuner we retune it to 288rwkw at 18psi on 98ron can get more but need bigger waste gate  38mm not big enough to stop over boosting at 8000 rpm. Then we tune an e85 map to 330rwkw, 500nm of torque at 21psi, again waste gate problems can get a lot more. Still have hour or two to finish it of, as my alternator belt disintegrated under high rpm. 

This info has changed check out my money pit thread.