I've fixed up a few other things now, but my clutch is still messing with me. its needs a VERY good bleeding. :(

I've borrowed a mates Mine's ECU for a few weeks. it's been in there for a day, running 16psi..... so far i can't really tell much difference over stock...
will see how the fuel economy goes....

A bit of an update on the SW20....

I am in the process of collecting bits for a gen 3 electronics conversion. i grab a map sensor off a mate for free. (he put a gen 3 in his ST162 and is running a microtech)
grabbed a gen 3 MR2 ecu for $70.
need to source a gen 3 ignitor.... and then buy the patch loom and MAT/IAT sensor kit from berk.
then ill wire it all up.
thats a little bit down the track though.

priority at the moment is the clutch and engine mount area.
the bottom engine mount bracket bolt (gearbox side. the bottom one that holds the shifter bracket to the gearbox) is stripped out.
i need to re-tap that and secure it properly.....ill get there.

once that is done, i will be replacing my slave cylinder with a single port celica cylinder, along with a braided line from the cylinder to the hard line on the body. completely bypassing the stupid twin line bracket setup thing thats there.


for tonight however, i modified my red 'courtesy light' on the doors....
i replaced them with two of these
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/24cm-Flexible-Car-Strip-Light-Waterproof-24-LED-Blue-/200472031142?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ead106fa6#ht_3776wt_907

pulled the door trims off, removed the pins from the connector, soldered them in place, put the trims back on, wedged the strips between the trim and the door, between two screws and tightened them down.
i now have a brilliant blue light at the tips of my doors in place of the red incandescent light. MUCH better.
pics up tomorrow some time.

New clutch slave cylinder is in.....
My clutch system now consists of the master cylinder, going to the hard lines that run down to the rear of the car. from there, i have the hard line going to a 50cm long braided line. the end of that goes to a 90º 10mm flared thread, which then goes to a single port ST162 slave cylinder!

bolted straight up, and i've just been cruising around all night with no problems.
(much easier to bleed too )

so whats the verdict feel wise?

Well I've been driving around with it for about two weeks now. The first week was very notch. I had a feeling it was dye to the clutch pedal adjustment.
I finally got a chance to adjust it and it's much better now. Gearbox oil may still be a factor.

Feel: first of all, having a 'sealed' clutch system that does leak will ALWAYS improve the feel. It is definitely responsive though. There is plenty of feedback, and it feels firm enough for an extreme HD.
Once I adjusted the clutch (which took a whole two minutes with a 12mm spanner) it was worlds above.

Overall, worth it. We'll see if there are any downsides though

My front engine mount has been coming loose a lot still.
I only just worked out that it must be the shifter linkages that is causing it to wiggle loose. has anybody else had ongoing problems with that particular mount/bracket?
i've threadlocked the hell out of it too.


on a different note.
I have been gradually collecting parts for a Gen 3 electronics conversion.
The final pieces that are still to arrive are the Gen2->Gen3 patch loom and the MAT/IAT sensor kit from Berk technology.

i have a Gen 3 ignitor (off a mate, i'll only pay some cash once its tested and working)
Gen 3 ecu for $70
Gen 3 map sensor off a mate running a microtech Gen 3 engine. $50
AFM connector (male pins ripped off the AFM itself so i don't need to hack any harnesses)

I will be getting the 540cc injectors shortly off the same guy who gave me the map sensor.

ETA for the conversion is end of september. I'm really looking forward to it! no more AFM!

another project i'm about to start is a new GPS security system. i won't say too much about it yet, but i'm looking into options for GPS tracking and remote immobilisation.

The gen3 ignitor will not bolt to the gen2 bracket.

you will need the gen3 ignitor/coil/bracket as a set.

the gen3 ignitor has a minorly different shape plug to the gen2.(having an extra plastic tang,fixed with a small file and 10seconds)

thanks for that 2 hardtop. i remember seeing something about that somewhere, but couldnt find anything.
i might be able to rig up something. the wiring/pins are still the same though correct?

and im guessing you've done the same gen 3 conversion?

Yes,the pins are all correct
it just won't plug in

Pic to help
http://torontopaseoclub.com/albums/album130/3E_Harness_with_5EFHE_Sensors_053.jpg
see each end of the wiring connector plug has a square shaped bump
and one side is bigger than the other.
The gen3 system is the same.
Whereas the gen2 only has a square bump on one side.

If you file down the extra square bump of the gen3 ignitor
the gen2 connector will then go straight on.


Yes,I was running a gen3 PowerFC on a gen2
by repinning the ECU connectors and adding the IAT and MAT(in CSI position) sensors.
I changed to the gen3 coil/ignitor set to alleviate the ignition cut
that occurs at around 6800rpm
if you run the gen2 coil/ignitor with the gen3 powerFC.
(not really a problem if you have a CT turbo on though)

Excellent. Thanks for that info.
i have a high flowed CT26 running 15psi at the moment.

I won't be looking at the ignitor until i have the rest of the parts though.