So I guess it didn't like the other pic as this one is fine...
 

 

Nice ride! Looks so clean.

Cheers, took about 6-7 hrs of arm numbing buffer work to get it to look like that.  Well worth it though.

Ok so it'd been 4.5yrs since I've made an update, geez!
 
Much has happened during this time and I'm up for a fresh round of development so I thought I should get onto some updates.  Unfortunately a lot of the photos I have from the last few years are stuck on my busted hard drive and I can't retrieve them.
 
  I had some issues trying to seal the AN fittings on the oil adapter/relocation plate.  O-ring boss hose ends fixed this issue.  I then had a run in tune done and I put about 1000km on it.  I had no further issues during this time and just continued with a few changes to my set up.  I did away with the Laminova oil cooler and went with a more traditional Earls air to oil cooler.  I also installed my Moroso sump.
 
Once these changes were made I went back to the Dyno for some power tuning.  At this stage I thought I had the small housing on my turbo (GT2860RS) so I limited boost to 16psi.  I made 268WHP on a conservative tune with a few opportunities showing up.  The first and most obvious was my intake temps which with my small I/C were 25* above ambient and almost 65*. 
 
The second didn't be apparent until later when I got the car home.  After discussions with my tuner about how we both expected a little more power I decided to do an intake pressure test, which as I've now learned is wise to do prior to tuning...  So as I'm using the 3SGE side feed manifold I had to make an adapter out of 3mm alli as the TBs use a different IACV.  Well this adapter had a leak about 20mm long.  Thats an intake leak 3mm x 20mm!  That was an easy fix but definitely a D'OH moment.  After this I was concerned about my tune but my wideband was still showing reasonable figures if anything a little rich.
 
I did a few thousand kms like this before my next round of mods.
 
 

I'd had some Gen 3 calipers and DBA 4000 series rotors to suit and Supra/RX8 upgrade.  I rebuilt the calipers including the handbrake mech which most don't using OEM kits and gave them a hit with some caliper paint and chucked in a 1" master for good measure.  My lesson from this is to bench bleed the bloody master.
 
Then I tuned my attention to the I/C as I had been wanting more.  During my research/decision making about the future direction of the mr2 I realised I actually had the larger 0.84 turbine housing and therefore the ability to run some more boost.  A few years ago I had bought a Precision Turbo PT900 core so I set about mounting the thing.  As you can see the thing is a lot larger then the previous 'cooler.  I had a fill point welded to the core to make it much easier to service the unit.
 
I did some logs the other week at a general practice day with fantastic results.  I did a  few pulls with my final 1-4 pull at an ambient temp of 22*, when I hit boost my intake temp dropped to 20* and topped out at 27*.  This had been after driving the car for about half an hour so everything was warm.  I am happy with this.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This is what my bay looked like until a few weeks ago.  Sorry about the quality.
 

 
So being pleased with the I/C setup it was time to move onto my next mods.  About  18mths ago I became interested in actually running E85 so I started to learn about pros and cons.  Early on I decided a flex tune was the way to go so I started to collect some parts.
 
So far I've accumulated the following,
 
Walbro  267 450LPH pump
Flex sensor
Fuel Pressure sensor
-8 Teflon supply lines
-6 Teflon return lines
a bunch of fittings
ID1300X injectors
ID-F750 fuel filter
and a heap of new o'rings to suit ethanol.
 

My plan with the lines is to enlarge everything from the pump on.  Locating the bulkheads in the tank hanger top plate is giving me a headache at the moment though.  I was originally going to simply drill out the current supply/return ports and replace them with the bulkheads but that was a bit optimistic of me thinking it would be that simple.  Where the pump hanger attaches to the underside of the top plate takes up alot of room and is making placement difficult.  One option that would create some room is relocating the 12v supply carrying obvious risks.
 
A lot of people simply use something like this,
 

 
 But is it actually ok to use bolts in a fuel tank?  I'm no pro but it does make me scratch my head.  What do you guys think? 
 
Actually something else that seems popular is a teflon shoulder washer but again this involves nuts and bolts.

Yes it is okay to bolts in a fuel tank. Just make sure that they will not come loose, as you can imagine what will happen. Most aftermarket fuel pump hangers (especially with dual internal pumps) use bolts and have no issues. Just remember that it is fuel, so except normal steel washers, paper/rubber will degrade and the bolts will come loose.
 
What power are you looking for on that turbo on e85? Around 300 i guess?

No expectations at this point and really more interested in the way it develops power than a peak figure. That said I don't think 300 will be too difficult on 98 so e85 will be north of there.

Fuel system complete bar injectors as I'd like to run it at least once to check it over. Just need to wait 24hrs for the loctite thread sealant to cure and I'll prime it and check for any issues.

From there it's just reassembly of the ic system and wiring up a few additional sensors and changeover of the injectors. Dyno is booked for Thursday week, I'm getting a bit excited/nervous.