Hi,  if you've had intermittent clutch pedal travel issue and fluids all look OK have a look at the linkage between the pedal arm and the master cylinder.  Mine had fractured and sometimes gave bad pedal travel.  Give the linkage a bit of a push up/down and sideways to see if there is movement.

I believe there is a kit available to re do the pivot linkage and give a better feel than the stock unit.
http://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_138&products_id=948
Is this the part you need replacing?
 

It looks like an improvement on my Toyota broken bit.  When I took it out I couldn't figure why it was so heavy, just a clevis fork.  But there seems to be some rubber material or something in the body of the Toyota part.  When I tried to reweld the two parts together I got a burning plastic stink out of the body so had to give up.  And it's a pressed/crimped assembly so not worth hacking further.  Better to go with a simple fork like the twosrus one you suggested.  I'm going to look a bit further here as the twosrus one says that I need to drill out the pedal arm.   I saw the same MR2 fork bit in a Corolla how to adjust clutch pedal blog.  And Corollas seem to use both solid and this MR2 sort of shock absorber style.  Might be a solid fork option out there that is drop in?  It's M8 thread and 8mm clevis pin and 54mm from c/l of clevis pin to end of threaded end.  Pretty standard?   I really wish my dad still had his workshop:-(

Hi Tuban,
I did cut my "bendy" one open, & removed the plastic part, & welded it back together.
I had forgotten that I had done it. I reckon that I had to put a spacer in it to hold the two parts correctly while it was welded.

Thanks Peter, good option.  I spoke to Josh at MR2 wreckers and he has the twosrus part in stock so I've ordered it from him.  He says that it looks like I can fit it without the roller bearing and and don't need to drill the clutch pedal arm.  Worst case I drill it?  My welding is pretty crap anyway so better option.