Because these are such a vital par,t that was something I had wondered about for some time, especially considering my 28 year old SW20 NA had done over 300,000 kms with it’s original fuel pump.
So I reckoned the time had come to chuck it, and stick in a new one, something I had been avoiding up until now knowing that it would be a PITA to fit a new one, since the fuel tank had to come out to do it. 
I went ahead with the job anyway, and had a fun time getting that tank out, but at this stage I’m just waiting on a couple of parts before I tackle re installing it.
 
The first pic shows the view you are confronted with after you remove the hand brake mechanism and all the underneath covers, and in next pic the fuel tank has been removed. 
 
I thought I would post this stuff up for general interest, because with the tank out you can see where the SW20 chassis gets a lot of it’s strength from with that channel right down the middle of the car to offset the loss of stiffness because of the targa top. This was something I had wondered about that is not so obvious just looking at the car from the outside.
 
The pic of the tank out of the car is yet another example of why these cars are unique. With such a long tank I checked inside with an endoscope and found that not surprisingly there are several internal baffles to stop the fuel from sloshing around under braking and cornering, as well as a special containment area that the fuel pickup sits in to ensure that the pump is never starved of fuel.



 
 

Well done. It is an awkward bugger of a job but at least your tank has a drain bung to empty it.
With 300,000 km. and 28 years those original Denso fuel pumps sure must be made of good stuff.
Well worth putting in another one.  Maybe a coat of paint on the tank while it's out?
Check those brass heater pipes especially where the rearmost brackets are brazed on to them.
Also check the electrical cables along the top of the tank. You don't want to see those little blighters again.
Make sure the original rubber pads are still glued in place on the tank before it wedges back up.

Thanks for the advice.
Yes I am aware of problems with the brass heater pipes but luckily mine are all good with no corrosion, and the tank also appears to be in very good condition with no rust anywhere inside or out.
 
BTW, although there are a lot of cheap replacement pumps around, there has to be a question mark over their quality. I didn't want to take the risk so I got a genuine pump from a Toyota dealer, and although expensive I thought it was good insurance for such a vital part.
If you ask Google, there are reports of many cheap 'knock off' pumps around, with blatant markings on the item as well as the packaging that looks exactly like the 'name brand' genuine items. Of course that doesn't only apply to fuel pumps, but that's another story.
Are any of these worth bothering with?? Who knows??
 

Buying from the authorised dealer is the best avenue, even if it’s a few dollars more. eBay “genuine” is rarely a genuine product. Fuel pump based on quality, performance and noise (imo);

For a stock or slightly modified 3sgte/3sge, imo Raceworks 265 lph e85 safe is the best. Authorised dealer in Sydney ships Australia wide. Around $150.

For a heavily modified Mr2, above 1000cc, above 20psi, walbro 460 e85 (new 274 model with improved pressure relief valve). Around $180.

Many Toyota genuine parts hold a quality above aftermarket, others are outdated technology.

The pump feed screen eventually goes brittle and breaks. If the tank has rust flakes or sediment, these then enter the pump and will eventually jam it. Long layups, stale fuel and especially E85 will make this happen faster.
 
If you are in there replacing the pump, consider the screen to also be a critical "wear and tear" item.

Your tank looks very clean. My internal baffles were completely rusted out.  

On your first pic what's that at the front end of the tank? almost looks like a drain point? only query it as mine had nothing on the tank there.
 
Also i'd be wary as to what you paint the tank with, not sure how these are coated (electroplating of some sort?) but it reacts very badly with the paints I used.  It all bubbled up and you could then just scratch all the plating off easily with your fingernail. 

AFAIA the earlier sw20's upto about 1993 had drain plugs in the centre of the petrol tanks. Later models post 1993 do not have them for some reason.
I maybe corrected though.

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tiff_lee
On your first pic what's that at the front end of the tank? almost looks like a drain point? only query it as mine had nothing on the tank there.
 
Also i'd be wary as to what you paint the tank with, not sure how these are coated (electroplating of some sort?) but it reacts very badly with the paints I used.  It all bubbled up and you could then just scratch all the plating off easily with your fingernail. 

Yes it is a drain plug.
Very useful, and you really need it empty to lift it out since a full tank weighs nearly 50 kg.
The paint on my tank looked pretty good so I didn't re-paint it.

Mine painted up without an issue. Used rust resistant paint.