2015/10/04 20:00:35
stuka
Joe are you aware the manual rack is slower?
2015/10/04 20:05:07
Randomity
I was not, but how much slower is it?
I would still consider it worth it just to not have the issues I've been having consistently with this.
Either that or do as Steve suggested and just crimp the ends of a P/S rack and pump it full of grease...
2015/10/06 09:06:37
Carmikey
Joe,
Why dont you just remove it & have it professionly reconditioned? They do them in Salisbury for about $225.
2015/10/06 11:35:27
Randomity
Carmikey
Joe,
Why dont you just remove it & have it professionly reconditioned? They do them in Salisbury for about $225.


I could do that. But then i'll have a good rack with no working pump, as that's still not resolved yet.
The main reasons for wanting to convert are because a manual rack is far more reliable since there's far fewer components to fail, it weighs less, and because i don't like the feel of the power steering in these (and most) cars. I have always preferred manual racks for the feedback and feel they offer.
2015/10/06 12:03:42
stuka
Joe you can still user the power steering rack, just remove all the stuff you dont need. Thats what I did and it works fine. $225 for a rebuild is a great price and you will have a warranty. The power steering rack is slow enough as is, manual would be even worse. 
2015/10/06 15:42:52
EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)
2015/10/06 16:16:25
rikkir
EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)

How hard is that to do? Is it just a straight pinion swap?
2015/10/06 16:29:02
Randomity
rikkir
EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)

How hard is that to do? Is it just a straight pinion swap?



If they go in the manual racks, and the swap isn't too complicated, that will be well worth doing!
I know Steve has been looking for a way to get a quicker ratio rack in his racecar for a while now, and is currently looking into the AW11 racks, and how to make them fit to utilise the Quaife quick-ratio racks they can have.
 
Either way, I'm still leaning towards the manual rack. The ratio doesn't worry me too much (never had any issues in my old car, which was N/A and came with one), but I'm unsure of how easy this rack will be to rebuild. I've never seen movement like it before in any car I've worked on.
 
I'll be able to get a complete manual rack and steering column for ~$250, which isn't much more, and only more work for me. But it's not like the car's getting driven any time soon anyway.
2015/10/06 17:22:11
5SGTE
EssDub
Chuck a Spyder steering pinion in there and it won't be slow anymore ;)




This would've fixed the great QR pinion debacle from a while ago.   Is it really possible?
2015/11/29 21:20:09
Randomity
 Another update.
 
Car hasn't moved since the last post, but has been chucked on axle stands.
While it was up there, I took the chance to remove the turbo to make space for some braided oil lines to replace the PITA hard lines, and put a Berk dump pipe I recently acquired on the turbo, since my second dump pipe has started to crack.
Upon pulling the turbo out, I discovered that it had about 4-5mm of shaft play (twice what it had upon getting the car home), and when I got it on the floor, a good amount of oil poured out of the compressor housing.
I know these engines breathe a bit of oil, but not that much considering the last 100 or so k's had been limping around.
Oil seals were clearly blown, and I'm lucky I pulled it out when I did, who knows when it might've let go and sent bits of compressor wheel through my intake?
 
I've got another turbo on order. A rebuilt steel-wheeled, hi-flowed CT26.
I considered going for an aftermarket turbo, like a disco potato, but don't fancy having to put adapter plates and customs dump pipes on the list of stuff to get.
Wasn't planning on putting crazy boost into this engine anyway, so a 26 will do nicely.
 
Also got some Gen 1 caster arms to replace the Tein ones I had in there originally.
I initially thought the Tein caster arms were no good, since I was only getting 1.5 degrees of caster out of them. But upon putting the OEM ones in, I managed 2 degrees, max.
I know for a fact that these arms offer up to 5.5 degrees, since I had the same ones in my old car, which is making me think that there may be something wrong with my suspension somewhere.
Visually, it looks fine, I can't pick any faults, but I've been wrong before.
 
Anyone got any ideas?
I've pulled the arms themselves out, leaving the brackets bolted in place, and will be taking the arms to work, and making replicas out of the high tensile threaded rod we use for truck U-bolts.
This way I can ensure the LCA's are moving far enough forward to get the caster I'm actually after.
 
And last thing on the list, I pulled the steering rack out again, and will be taking the advice of you guys and getting this one rebuilt. But I'll be removing the P/S pump, reservoir and lines, and pumping the rebuilt rack with grease.
Hopefully by the time I'm ready to get the rack rebuilt, I'll be able to get my hands on a Spyder pinion to give this QR SW rack a shot. If it works, we'll know it's a relatively easy way to improve lock-to-lock on SW racks!
 
I also think I'll be removing the aircon from the car as an added weight reduction.
on the way home from buying, we hit a rabbit, and it looks like it was a biggun!
it broke the front bar along the bottom, and bent the condenser right in the middle.
I never used my aircon anyway.

 
Unfortunately, these developments have left me unable to make it to MTC16 (sorry guys), but you can bet I'l be there in 2017 to give it a thrashing! 
 
Let me know if you guys have any ideas or suggestions!
Cheers!
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