Reading all this im thinking you didnt even look at the car before you brought it.

1100rpm hot idle... 15 degrees base timing will do that, without adjustment at the throttle body.  Pull that back to 10-12 and leave it there.  You're probably detonating the **** out of the engine too.  Although I can't recall if the gen2 GE engine utilized a knock sensor, it's a fair bet that it'd be picking up massive knock under load and pulling the IGN timing and dumping extra fuel to compensate and try to eliminate the knock.
 
Other thing is, take off your MAP vac line and clean it out with a compressor gun.  Also check the AC Idle up lines for leakage.
 
As for the clutch, is there any play in the pedal at all? Just undo the hex nut on the back of the shaft and wind it back in a bit to take the bite point a little further down the pedal.  Works a treat.

EssDub
1100rpm hot idle... 15 degrees base timing will do that, without adjustment at the throttle body.  Pull that back to 10-12 and leave it there.  You're probably detonating the **** out of the engine too.  Although I can't recall if the gen2 GE engine utilized a knock sensor, it's a fair bet that it'd be picking up massive knock under load and pulling the IGN timing and dumping extra fuel to compensate and try to eliminate the knock.
 
Other thing is, take off your MAP vac line and clean it out with a compressor gun.  Also check the AC Idle up lines for leakage.
 
As for the clutch, is there any play in the pedal at all? Just undo the hex nut on the back of the shaft and wind it back in a bit to take the bite point a little further down the pedal.  Works a treat.

+1.     N/A SW20's certainly do not like the timing played around with especially if it is over advanced. These are a high compression motor and the computer and timing are designed to get the max out of it in standard form.
 
I don't know about the other problems you are having but the advanced timing would certainly account for increased fuel consumption and poor performance.
From memory correct timing is 10 degrees TDC.

EssDub
1100rpm hot idle... 15 degrees base timing will do that, without adjustment at the throttle body.  Pull that back to 10-12 and leave it there.  You're probably detonating the **** out of the engine too.  Although I can't recall if the gen2 GE engine utilized a knock sensor, it's a fair bet that it'd be picking up massive knock under load and pulling the IGN timing and dumping extra fuel to compensate and try to eliminate the knock.

 
+1  Set it properly to 10 BTDC
And the gen2 3SGE does have a knock sensor BTW.
 
With reference to:
"The only thing I keep going back to is my sensor that plumbs into the intake
Is hanging in my engine bay, so maybe it's running very rich that would explain the fuel and the bad power"
No, that would NOT explain your problems.
 
Is the ACIS working properly?
The butterfly shaft and can seize up due to rust, and if it was frozen in the open position it would cause a loss of torque at lower revs.
While the turbo uses TVIS, the 3SGE intake intake manifold has an ACIS setup that uses spring loaded butterflies that are open when the motor is stopped but close when the motor is started.
Check to see that works ok, first with the motor stopped and then with it running.