Hi guys
My Na newly acquired has an issue
On Wednesday I'm having the coolant flushed, filled with toyota red and bled
A new thermostat installed and gasket

The timing advanced to 14-15deg

The clutch bled

Throttle adjusted
Going to stay back at work with one of the mechanics and smash all that


But one issue I keep scratching my head at is this:

It eats fuel, but is very very slow has stuff all power down low
And kind of picks up, up top,
Now I was thinking maybe the timing is off?
The only thing I keep going back to is my sensor that plumbs into the intake
Is hanging in my engine bay, so maybe it's running very rich that would explain the fuel and the bad power
Also there is a AFR gauge installed and it reads rich all the time dosnt move but
That may be inaccurate as my pressure sensor is connected to everything but a pressure sensor lol

Anyone have any ideas?

Did you say the car never gets up to correct operating temperature? Only up to a 1/4?
If that's the case then what your seeing is normal. The ecu still thinks the engine is cold and is therefore running rich as part of the sequence to get it up to temperature.
The previous owner might have put a TRD thermostat in or no thermo at all due to a problem with the cooling system.
 
The temp probe hanging in the bay doesn't matter its still reading the ambient temp of what the filter would be sucking in (maybe a degree or 2 off)
 

Also what do you mean by this comment?
That may be inaccurate as my pressure sensor is connected to everything but a pressure sensor lol
 
And with the timing just set it at what the workshop manual recommends. Just get it running right than start fiddling with it later. 

There is a pressure gauge installed
It gets power and lights up with the dimmers

Just has the wires ziptied together in my engine bay
I need to install a sensor and connect it up ahaha

I really wouldn't think it would be so slow down low
With it only being semi warm I thought it may contribute

But maybe a combination of both the sensor as its not changing the mappin as the throttle opens and creates a higher velocity of flow through the intake

The cooling system

And perhaps a timing problem

All easily fixable will be sorting all this week :)
So that's fine

Alright then, good luck :)

Yeah I don't mean to disregard what you have suggested
Sorry if I came off as rude

Thanks for your help :)
Ill let you know how it all goes

Also
My clutch literally bites as soon as I put my foot on the clutch
Now ill he adjusting that so it's kind upper middle

Could that be slightly engages whilst driving?

Also how can I diagnose a vaccum leak
I hear alot of hissing
But I mean any symptoms from throttle and revving etc
Like, it has poor throttle response and when it does pick up revs it lingers for a while longer then usual sounds a little like its hunting before dying down

I know these are novice questions
I've done a lot of work on previous mr2s myself and do have a sound knowledge on cars and how they work
Just want someone else's insight :)

The clutch issue I have no idea. Maybe adjustment will solve that one.
 
With the poor throttle response, hissing etc just wait till you have a genuine thermostat in there and the temperature where its supposed to be. You might find it will go away.
Does the car get down to its correct idle RPM? I'm not sure what that is on an NA, prob 750-800rpm

Hmm that's a good point,
I think I'm thinking to far ahead and fearing the worst
My tacho dosnt seem to be functioning correctly ATM
Works only a little
So probably a connection issue
Will have an auto elec look at it
Not the most confident at pulling a cluster out I would have no idea
What to look for, ahah so I may leave that to an auto elec
I know my combustion engines but electrics hurts my head
Ahaha


But just going off ear, it definitely does no idle at 750rpm
Idles at more like 11-1300
A semi warm.
And I would easily say 1500 cold

pressure sensor , what exacty are you reffering to?? are you talking about a vaccum gauge ?
the O2 sensor should fluctuate between rich and optimum or whatever your says when driving at least. its quite annoying, if you want the proper reading you will need a wideband one.
cant remeber off the top of my head now if the N/A had the TVIS. if so is it working properly? if not that could be why its low on power down the bottom end.
also coolant not heating uo means cars still running rich on cold start, so until the coolant reaches optimum temp, the ecu wont let it rev hard and dump fuel to be safe.
do a diagnostic check on the car , find the diagnostic port and connect the pins (cant remeber which ones now i think its T1+E and look for error codes) then if there is any look up what they mean an go from there.