Actually you dont offset grind them unless you have custom pistons like the ATS 2.3 stroker does (and ATS won't sell you those pistons!) You centre grind them for off the shelf pistons. The 5s crank does not have the knife edge that 3s cranks have to stop oil splash, also the 5s counter weights are way different. You would have to get a lot of balancing done after grinding. But my question is can you actually notice the difference when you drive it?

The 2 second answer is yes.

you don't have to use the 5s crank, you could just fit a 3s crank to the 3s block. it's what i'm doin with my build.
 
i'm after rpm so i've also changed the rod/stroke ratio. 4mm longer rods, custom pistons and vvti head.
 
if you want to go nut's Totenkopf has billet 5s cranks, mains sized to suit 3s rod sizes and PCD to suit 3s flywheels.
 
the 3s block weakness is common knowledge, much like how everyone wants a 7 rib block when building a 4a. but if you haven't researched/talked to those that have been playing with them then you wouldn't know, and run of the mill engine builders wouldn't either.
 

Give up on the 3S block. Cracked 2 & the last one had decent sleeves too. 5S block is the way to go if you don't want a 7th round.

Seen just about every 3S block crack including some grout filled & sleeved examples.

Yes, the extra displacement is worth it :) I rev too 8500/9000rpm with my 5SGTE & my GT35R hits 20psi before 4500rpm. Driveability off boost is great too. You'll touch same kinda power numbers with a 3S crank, but strokers are more driveable IMO.

Ok I will use a 5S block!
Who did your longer rods just_ace?  I spent a week trying to find someone to make rods for me and I gave up.
How much are the billet cranks?
Thanks for the info guys!
 
 

I got mine made by pauter via gorilla industries.

I think Totenkopf had the cranks for $1700, he needed a minimum order to get them made even tho he only wanted 1 for himself.

Are you breaking blocks due to the tune?
After reading some of the threads on the cracking blocks, the tune/detonation tops the list. Can you look at a data log to see whats happening leading up to the block cracking?
Im sure the waterpump has some effect too as its under a lot of load as it works off the timing belt. It is also hangin off the side of the block with a poor looking flow design. If I had the desire down the track, I would like to change it to something better. The electric water pump is the first step but there is more to be done.
Another point could be a semi rigid mounted engine in a 'loose' chassis causing strees on the block under load but like the above, just a theory.
 
 
 

It is possible that it may have been pinging.  I wouldnt have been able to hear it with my helmet on, and I did add a couple of extra psi for the last few runs.  I did one run, and near the finish line it filled up the air filter with oil (blow by).  Last time that happened to me I had broken a ring land, so I though it was all over.  I cleaned up all the oil, and to my supprise it ran fine so I did another 2 runs and drove home.  It was days later that I noticed the overheating problem, and a burning plastic smell.  Took the head off to change the gasket (wasnt a cometic, more like a metal ACL), and was devoed to find the hairline crack in no2.  I had almost the same HP from my 4A without issue and I gave the 4A a much harder time.   Its a street car so stock mounts.  I was running 0.5mm over SPS pistons.  I am building up a '98 3SGE block with SRP pistons (86mm) to get me out of trouble and I will limit boost to 21 rather then the 25 peak I was running, while I save for either an ATS 2.3 stroker (bargain at $3100, but the freight is $1200+ and then you get hit with duty and GST, so its more like a $5-6k bottom end), or a 5SGTE.
I notice JE and CP dont sell pistons for 5S block with 3S crank :(

Whilst detonation can have an effect, the 3S block has certainly proven to be a weak link. I monitored my last engine religiously (FC knock & audibly) & can confidently say detonation did not have a role in my last block failure. Didn't pick up any detonate in the 3yrs before it cracked nor were their signs of any when the motor was taken apart. The block is simply a weak point. You can have relatively conservative timing etc & it'll still crack if you're at or beyond its limit.
 
Why would you buy an ATS bottom end, when you can build one locally for noticeably less.
 
$200-400ish for the block
$1000 for pistons & rods
$500 for misc stuff (rod bolts, bearings, HG etc)
$500 in machine work
 
Those are pretty generous figures too. If you're only getting pistons then it's even less.

JE and CP pistons for 5S block with 3S crank would be the usual 3S pistons but in 87mm