Couple of other bits and pieces to add:

with the wire strippers you can get a set from motec for a little over $100,and are suitable for use with tefzel wire. they suit 22g->16 (unfortunantley not to 26g) and there is also a larger set, suitable for normal wire. They are made by snap on, and look exactly the same as the wire strippers brendan showed.

For unbooted connectors where a boot is not possible to fit (delco sensors and honeywell), you can seal off the wire with a little bit of ES heatshrink. this stuff comes in 5 or 6 sizes from memory, but it can shrink down 300% from its original size.

Power Distribution modules are very very useful tools, as you can not only moniter and log the current useage of each device, you can set up warnings to dashes when particular outputs are drawing too much current, also if it triggers a digital fuse, a quick key off and on and the switch is reset, no replacing fuses. Also in multi fuel pump setups, by monitoring current draw through each pump, you can keep an eye on the health of the pump (higher current draw - pump on its way out)

When you start getting to the extreme end of things, you will also get to the point of changing sensors to motorsport grade sensors. For instance you can start off with things like solid state liquid level sensors for fuel etc, fuel flow sensors for endurance vehicles, you can even run an engine debris sensor for things like you engine and gearbox to help prevent doing massive damage to these components. You can even use ultrasonic flow sensors for airflow meters and i've known them to be run in breather setups to moniter engine blowby. I've had some experience with a UK company called Gill, their products are used in V8SC, F1, WRC, etc. Be warned, they are VERY expensive. We pay around $980 for one of their fuel level sensors,and they are distributed by racer industries.

Motorsport looms can be very time consuming depending on the number of systems included in a car. For a basic engine/fuel system/brake lights/dash can take 40hours depending on the car, then when you start adding more and more things, it can take quite a while.

For the melbourne based members, a couple of places for such parts to build your wiring loom:
Jay Dee auto cables
Motec (expensive)
Gary Rowe (even more expensive) This guy also builds motorsport looms, and has been for years. Also easiest place to source DT autosport connectors.

Also check out cambridge technologies as well, have used them in the past for wire.

Another note, DT and DTM connectors pop up a lot on ebay, and there are fake DTM connectors. We were shown some and checked them over, and the only way you can actually tell is the pins are numbered in reverse order.

Now were talking! Another person whos into the same as me! What do you do?
 
Ill be running one of the Gills fuel level sensors as the tank will be full of foam so a float arm wont work well, also the factory sensor is rubbish  if you know somone in UK to order them then you can get it alot cheaper then from RI, they bump up the price alot.
They also make great ethanol content sensors used in the V8SC that look the same as the level sensors.
 
I buy all my gear from Gary at GRME, he is a top bloke, altho quite busy most of the time.
 
The striper i have is a Ideal custom strip master, not sure what part number blade but can find out, but it does go down to 26, not that I am using wire that small, due to lengths and for mechanical strength the smallest im really using as 22 and 24.

Yeh I'm curious too MCT_MR2 you seems to know a lot about...everything lol

He may not wish to divulge where he works but he gets paid to prep race cars.

lets just say I work for a motec dealer, who helped develop the m800, and although I am mechanic by trade, I do a lot of aftermarket ecu installs etc.

Videos always convey things easily.
 
Most people will know "Engineered to slide", "Nigel from Geelong", ETS yadda yadda. He has teamed up with STM from NZ who are over atm to make him a MIL spec loom and teach him to tune. They have started posting informative videos for the novices and i think it is a good resource to view.
 
Here is the link, keep watching their videos:-
 
https://vimeo.com/highperformanceacademy

Good link Travis.
Mine should be redone, up and running in a few days.

I just about finished wiring my car.
It has been done the basic system:
A motorsport spec isolator switch is fitted.
Power is supplied to two buzz bars (one up front and one behind the passenger's seat) via gauge 2 power leads. Power is then distributed to relays and relay switches.
A majority of the negative power is returned to a buzz bar then back to the battery. The earths required for the engine block also return to the negative buzz bar with two addition leads fitted to the chassis. All leads are gauge 2.
My original switch panel is used with basic 20amp switches.
One ignition switch controls power to 5 fused(some have circuit breaker fuses) relays to operate the car. 1/Coils, 2/injectors, 3/ECU, Dash, data logger, exhaust gauge and wideband sensor, 4/water pump, 5/water injection.
A second switch controls the fuel pump. 30amp fused relay. 30amp wire is used on both positive and negative for the fuel pump.
A button controls the starter motor. 20 amp fused relay.
There is a one speed wiper switch which is relay controlled.
Hazards are used but no left and right blinker. The Hazard lights are controlled by the original Toyota relay.
There is one light switch for driving lights but no night driving lights fitted.
Another relay switch is fitted and looped into the relay rack but nothing fitted. This is a Aux switch for possible future use.
The data logger has a 1 amp relay with a separate switch which allows the data logger to be turned on after the engine starts to eliminate a energy pulse damaging the SD card.
The dash 2, has a switch panel fitted with all the other switches to allow scrolling and commands.
Everything is soldered with a few connectors, then heat shrink fitted.
All wires are clamped and secured and wrapped.
Wiring which is close to the engine receives additional heat management. After seeing the effects of a high mount turbo at 800 degrees has on wiring looms for a coil over plug system, it was required.
I know I have a lot of relays, but I would rather use more than less after the problems experienced before.
 
This job was done at home, after hours with parts sourced from Jaycar.
The cost to do this system on the car was $500-$600 in materials.
The cost in time is a 40+hr job.
Some tips.
Buy the larger looms of wiring to save time and money.
Buy the long lengths of heat shrink.
Buy a high quality soldering iron and correct solder. Learn how to use it correctly and efficiently.
Have a brace to hold the wires (being soldered together) to save time.
Solder all connection points to the buzz bar (if used)
Good lighting.
Good music!
Internet access on hand to solve problems if they come up.
 
Hope this helps others looking at taking on the challenge.
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LEmXo17uhOU
 
the heatgun part is really the true teller of why you should buy better wire i feel.</p>

Exactly, and its even more necessary when used with heatshrink such as Raychem DR-25 which required a fair bit of heat to fully recover, and even more so for molded heatshrink boots on connectors or transitions.
 
Most common 'Tefzel' (ETFE) wire used in motorsport is Raychem Spec 55.
Cheaper alternative thats used is the Spec 44 which is Polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF)