My (second) RacerX shipment is on its way, including a 1ZZ COP conversion kit, a crank trigger wheel with hall sensor, and a cam trigger wheel with hall sensor. I ended up needing a custom crank trigger wheel, because I forgot that I have a Ross harmonic balancer rather than the stock one! I got a loyalty discount for the overall order though :-)
On an unrelated note, now that I'm very happy with my lower ride-height, I really should get another wheel alignment. I've learnt a lot more about alignments recently. At this stage I'm thinking of getting 0mm front toe (or maybe 1-2mm toe-out) and 2-4mm total toe-in at the rear. I'm open to other alignment suggestions, for a car driven mainly on the street, and not daily.
The last time I had a wheel alignment about a year ago, I got everything adjusted perfectly (camber, caster and toe) at Heasman steering. At the time, they set the rear camber to exactly -1.5 degrees on both sides, as I wanted. In recent months I had been really puzzled, thinking that my eyes were deceiving me, because I started thinking that my rear left wheel had noticeably more negative camber than the right wheel. It was annoying because it was making it difficult to adjust my fender clearance at the rear when lowering the car. Tonight I realised that I could download a simple 'level' app for my Android phone, to finally measure the camber myself. Well, it turns out that my rear left wheel has indeed changed from -1.5 degrees...to -2.7 degrees! (the right wheel is still -1.5 as expected). I guess I must have hit a decent sized bump or pothole on the left side, and forgot about it :-/ It will be interesting to see if one of the two big strut bolts has shifted in the elongated hole in the KW coilover. It probably has. Come to think of it, I think Heasman only tightened those bolts with an impact wrench, without a final hand-tighten once the camber was finalised.
BTW Jay, as you suggested many times I finally removed that other tab that was scrubbing my rear left tyre inside the fender.