dont change the ignition untill you reach its limits. mine was perfect with stock ignition.

how much did the intake cost?? im after one too. racerx is prob the best looking aswell.

Don't get caught up with the 'big tb makes things twitchy' thing, because I an ensure you it doesn't at least not up until 75mm.  Maybe a 90mm might be excessive but 75mm didn't seem to me much different than OEM (though there was a period of 1.5yrs between driving with OEM and driving with 75mm).
 
Looks like your sorting a few more things out :)  Strangely, you never seem to be finished with cars!  Your not the first person I've heard with issues with ECUs in the boot.  5SGTE on the forums had issues with his haltech on the dyno getting too hot resulting in loss of crank signal.  I am now thinking maybe its the same issue that MR2Mark was having as well. 
 
I never had any dramas with the Autronic.  I haven't used my M800 yet, but the Autronic was the best ECU I have seen to date.  Driveability was amazing for a highly modified car.  Default settings for idle controls etc were already VERY accurate and never even got touched.  Ahh, the days.
 

JDM_GT
how much did the intake cost?? im after one too. racerx is prob the best looking aswell.

I think the intake manifold itself was $795 US.
I paid just over $1k total for the side-feed RacerX intake manifold, phenolic spacer and shipping from the US to AU.
 

-Totenkopf-
Don't get caught up with the 'big tb makes things twitchy' thing, because I an ensure you it doesn't at least not up until 75mm.  Maybe a 90mm might be excessive but 75mm didn't seem to me much different than OEM (though there was a period of 1.5yrs between driving with OEM and driving with 75mm).

Thanks for the advice. I've already bought a gen 3 TB off just_ace, so that's settled. Increasing the TB diameter from 55 to 60mm makes quite a big difference to the area of the TB.
 

-Totenkopf-
Looks like your sorting a few more things out :)  Strangely, you never seem to be finished with cars!

I've modified almost every part of my car, so there isn't a whole lot more that I can do after this step. I'm extremely happy with it already, and these new engine mods will make it just about perfect for me!
 

-Totenkopf-
Your not the first person I've heard with issues with ECUs in the boot.  5SGTE on the forums had issues with his haltech on the dyno getting too hot resulting in loss of crank signal.  I am now thinking maybe its the same issue that MR2Mark was having as well. 
I never had any dramas with the Autronic.  I haven't used my M800 yet, but the Autronic was the best ECU I have seen to date.  Driveability was amazing for a highly modified car.  Default settings for idle controls etc were already VERY accurate and never even got touched.  Ahh, the days.

It's interesting to read your comments about others, with different ECU brands.
My e1280s ECU is still a modified version of one of the earlier beta testing units, from when I worked at Adaptronic myself. The latest ECU hardware has it all fixed, I just haven't had a chance to get my ECU hardware upgraded yet. I'm moving the A2W barrel out of the boot regardless of the ECU situation anyway.
BTW, it is indeed the crank signal that gets lost in my ECU at really high ECU temperatures. The temperature only affects the signal enough to cause problems at cranking speed (hence preventing the car from starting in those conditions). As soon as the RPM gets to idle speed or higher, the amplitude of the reluctor crank signal gets high enough to overcome the temperature-dependent voltage offset in the crank signal detection circuitry. When the ECU cools down the car always starts and runs VERY nicely again. I can't emphasize enough how perfectly my ECU operates in every other way :-) on the topic of idle control...Adaptronic ECUs can do closed-loop idle control using a combination of ISCV control AND ignition timing adjustment at idle, maybe Autronic does that too but I can't remember. The ignition timing idle control makes it so much easier for my car to idle nicely with the big cams.

That was this issue with mine, restart when the ecu was hot, otherwise was fine. No issues with road use so far.

you could cut open the side intake plastic to put air into the boot, and then put heatsinks on the ECU.

It's only on the dyno, I'm sure a fan will suffice.

Actually it's not on the dyno. My car was dyno tuned in about March last year and had no issues. The problem has only started happening this summer when the weather is really hot. The intercooler barrel in the boot would be hotter too for the same reason, and that is close to the ECU.

5SGTE's car was basically tuned in summer, in the dyno booth the heat from the exhaust was just radiating straight up through the boot.  The boot was hot, and the ecu was even hotter.  MR2Marks car had the exact same issue on a wolf3d v4 (yuck) ecu.  Cranking speeds, no crank signal.  Ran OK though, this only happened after he'd been driving for a while though.  I've told him next time he drives it if the issue occurs to see if his ECU is feeling toasty.  They must use similar components in their ecu's which suffer under the same temperature conditions.  I never had the issue with my Autronic though. 

ohh. i have a wolf v500 and sometimes my car would do funny things and i ask my mechanic time and time again to find something wrong they never do. its not so bad now, but before on my gt28rs sometimes would what felt like ignition cut of some sort.