i only ever heatsoak in traffic after sitting around for 40 minutes ingridlock.. but then after 5 minutes of driving again its down under 40 again

Heatsoak to what temperate? 42 after sitting in traffic that long isn't exactly heatsoak.

MR2QIK
I'd prefer not to rely on the ecu to fix problems. I'd rather avoid the problems altogether & allow the ecu to play a part if there's a failure Check your logs & if it's not an issue on the road, then just leave it be.

Don't get me wrong, I feel the same way, I was just making a point that it isn't a massive issue, if I choose to leave it as-is.

MR2QIK
I actually wouldn't recommend a W2A setup (esp yours) for a trackday. Not sure how you intend to run it, but it's not going to be the "optimum" cooling system. The charge air temp won't drop even lower as it passes through each heat exchanger, in fact it may be completely redundant if the last in line was one of the hotter sidemounts.
It takes W2A systems longer to recover after heatsoaking & in a track environment, you'd prefer not to cover the radiator @ all. Hence my recommended track setup will always be a nice big trunk mount A2A.

Yeah I always knew that water-to-air is not always the way to go for a track car, but my car is very much a street car, which may see tracktime a few times per year at the most.

MR2QIK
I have black hosing, but it's protected by the plastic covers (all my covers are still there). Front heat exchanger if fitted perfectly will not require removal or relocation of AC/radiator.

That's good to know, thanks.

Damnit, now I'm thinking about all this, which I had no intention of doing!
As I've already said, I've had no major issues on the street so I may completely forget about this idea, but it would probably give me more peace of mind, especially if I went to the track. There would also be the added bonus of an (unnecessary but nonetheless significant) improvement on the dyno.

Do you have a Bosch pump ? If so its too weak , you need a bigger one.
You need to get the water moving as fast as possible. Inch lines or even bigger are better if you can find the space.
I dont think those engine radiators will do much unless you have fans that are drawing air from outside the car , some sort of funneling.
Your in Sydney i would drop into Plazmaman and after you speak to Alex i reckon the first thing you will change is the Barrel ( btw i have one so im not biased )
 
I definitely would have the radiator up front and the bigger the better that you can fit.
IF you were to go with hose front to back i dont know as i wouldnt want them to be close to the water hoses as they probably would be as you have to twist it around so as to put the plastic bits on. Thats why i went aluminium and under the fuel tank well away from the heater hoses.
 
So the principal is to circulate as fast as you can get that water to the radiator up front.
If you have A/C you cant mount another fan, but im looking into putting another radiator a second one behind the OEM fans with fans on that radiator.
 
 

BTW i have done at least 60 dyno pulls and the maximum i have ever had is 45 degrees IAT's

man hook those front fans up to your ECU, control them how u like then. But definitely the best way to go with the head exchanger is front mount, its really hard to beat

This issue of both fans on all the time i dont like as i have seen this with a few cars. I would get to the bottom of it. Obviously you know it shouldnt be this way. Do you have A/C ? Because if you do when you switch it on the fans should come on then and half speed as they are linked in series and only parallel when relay one and two is deenergised. Most likely a faulty temp sender on the radiator or not connected as its the ground for continuity for both those relays

* OPERATION AT HIGH SPEED
DURING A/C OPERATION, WHEN THE PRESSURE OF A/C COMPRESSOR BECOMES HIGHER THAN NORMAL PRESSURE (MORE
THAN 1402 KPA 14.3 KG/CM2 203 PSI), THE A/C SINGLE PRESSURE SW TURNS OFF.
AS A RESULT, FAN RELAY NO. 1 AND NO. 2 TURN OFF AND THE CURRENT FLOWS FROM ALT FUSE TO TERMINAL 5 OF FAN MAIN
RELAY " TERMINAL 4 " CDS FAN FUSE " TERMINAL 2 OF A/C CONDENSER FAN MOTOR " TERMINAL 1 " TERMINAL 3 OF FAN
RELAY NO. 2 " TERMINAL 4 " GROUND, AT THE SAME TIME FROM TERMINAL 4 OF FAN MAIN RELAY TO RAD FAN FUSE "
TERMINAL 4 OF FAN RELAY NO. 1 " TERMINAL 3 " TERMINAL 2 OF RADIATOR FAN MOTOR " TERMINAL 1 " GROUND, FLOWING
TO EACH FAN MOTOR IN PARALLEL CAUSING THE FAN TO ROTATE AT HIGH SPEED.
NOTE THAT, EVEN IF THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE 90°C (194°F), THE WATER TEMP. SW (FOR RADIATOR
FAN) TURNS OFF A SIGNAL IS SENT TO TERMINAL 9 OF A/C AMPLIFIER. BECAUSE THE CURRENT FLOWS FROM TERMINAL 8 OF A/C
AMPLIFIER TO TERMINAL 6 IS SHUT OFF, THE CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE A/C SINGLE PRESSURE SW AND GROUND IS DEACTIVATED,
SO THE SAME OPERATION CONTINUES.

I've already discussed this on the forum in the past, I can't remember if it was in this thread or a separate one, probably both. I started troubleshooting but never finished. I checked all the relevant relays on the bench and they were all fine, and I unplugged the sensor/switch in the radiator and the fans continued to run full speed (expected I suppose, so that doesn't rule that out). That's as far as I got. The A/C amplifier could have issues too.