I have the following setup:

- Air temp sensor before A2W IC
- Air temp sensor after A2W IC
- Water temp sensor in filler neck
- e1280s ECU aux outputs to relays for the heat exchanger fan and electric water pump

I could just run the fans and pump constantly (that would obviously be the best for performance), but to reduce wear I'll set up the aux outputs from the ECU to only turn on the relays at some water and/or air temperature. I could also set up the ECU to keep itself powered up for a few minutes after I leave the car, so the fans and pump could keep running and get the A2W system back to ambient temperature before I return to the car.
The air temp sensor after the barrel will be used as the main air temp signal for fuel enrichments in the ECU. The air temp sensor before the barrel will be purely for logging purposes, to see how well the W2A system is performing.

^^^ umm Okay then lol (vinnys boner comment).

Nice man Eng set up looks good, nice cooler, I hear all the cool kids have them, keen to see some of the before and after temp figures.

Finally it is totally finished! Until I inevitably decide that I want to do more mods in a few years time :-P
All that remains now is the all important tuning (after the remainder of the run-in period which I'll do on the dyno too).







Finally the various temperature sensors are wired up properly:


Enjoy!

That is one mean looking engine you got there robk

Congrats on the build, it looks beautiful

Looks awesome, well done.

Congrats buddy! Hope first start up etc is uneventful.

quote:

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Originally posted by MR2QIK

Congrats buddy! Hope first start up etc is uneventful.

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It already started a few weeks ago, it idles nicely and all
I had it on the dyno briefly too.

The only problem I have to sort out now is 'triggering' related. The tacho occasionally flicks randomly, which indicates that the ignition output pulses from the ECU are playing up occasionally (as confirmed by the built-in oscilloscope in the Adaptronic tuning software). I can't dyno it again until this is sorted of course. I still need to determine if the reluctor signals from the dizzy to the ECU are causing the problem. Hopefully I won't have to re-wire anything to reduce electrical noise on those wires.

Dont know exactley how but my tuner added a resistor to my taco line.

Also another heads up , iust in case you dont have enough cooling on the barrel there is a place here in Victoria that totally rubbishes the barrels and sells racing A/W intercoolers. Aint cheap, the more cores the dearer it is .
4 core is around #2,300 but cools much better .
I would have gone with it but dont have the room.
However since yours is in the boot , well tons of room

hah....haven't thought about in line signal filters for the tacho since i had my old mini's.

they had terrible elec interference when fitting after-market tacho's running of the ign coil.

i love the clean simple black and metal finish of the bay. NEAT!

It's not a problem with the tacho itself. What I meant was that there are incorrect ignition pulses being generated occasionally, and this has the side effect of making the tacho also jump (which is probably a good thing because incorrect ignition pulses are certainly not something that I would want to go unnoticed).
Mandalay, I know there are better coolers out there but I'm sure my setup will be more than sufficient, so it doesn't matter.