Finally some more progress!
Lots of small things have happened in the last week or so, and there is a possibility that I'll be able to start setting up the Adaptronic e1280s ECU and start the car before the end of the week fingers crossed!

The following has been completed since my last update:
- New spark plug leads fitted
- Filler neck fitted for W2A system
- Oil catch can fitted
- BOV fitted
- Pod filter fitted
- New custom harmonic balancer fitted
- 3 bar MAP sensor fitted
- Fuel pressure regulator fitted and plumbed in
- Boost control solenoid fitted and plumbed in
- A/C compressor re-fitted
- X-brace re-painted in black (not fitted yet)
- Most hose clamps fitted (happy Surok?)

All that's left is for me to wire up the pump/fans/sensors for the W2A system (not vital to start the car of course), and there may be a few very small things for my mechanic to finish too.





'D1 Spec' oil catch can:


MSD 3 bar MAP sensor in place of stock MAP sensor, and filler neck for W2A IC system (notice the water temperature sensor which was custom fitted):


External wastegate plumbing:


MAC boost control solenoid valve:


Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator:


Turbosmart plumb-back BOV (the BOV itself isn't really visible, but you can see how it plumbs back very neatly):


Big intake pipe/hose from pod filter:


Looking up into left side vent, showing the pod filter location:


This one is just to show what I mean when I say that I get to watch the progress very closely every day while I'm at work (that's my office window on the second level of the building, with my car on the hoist :

Looking great!! Love the view from your desk. If it was me sitting there, I think the cleaners would complain from having to constantly clean up the drool...

cheers

Thanks!
My mech keeps laughing at me for taking so many photos, but then he'll always say "nah I'm just kidding, I would too". lol
I've caught him taking photos of it too haha, I don't blame him, he has done an amazing job with the car and I'm sure he is proud of it.

The car will definitely be started next week if not tomorrow, but I've concluded that there is no way I'm going to get to drive the car before I lose my license on tuesday. At least I can just take my time with it now. I was worried that I wouldn't get to run it in and therefore I wouldn't be able to do any proper tuning for the whole 6 months, but my mech informed me that I can run it in by spending quite a few hours on his dyno after hours. Also, he offered for me to spend as much time as I want on his dyno (next door to where I work) while he is away for a whole week at the SEMA show in the US in a few weeks! I'm still very much a beginner with using dynos (his is Dyno Dynamics), but I've played around with my car on his dyno before a little bit, and I won't be doing any full power runs until he gets back from the US.

I can't wait to finally do some power runs after that and see what it can do! Then it will be off to WSID and track days I hope!

Run it in on the dyno;)

Progress is looking awesome Rob. Will be delighted to see this on the road.

DYno run ins are better :D

Can plan out the whole run in process without having to worry about traffic and speedhumps and cars.

I would be VERY SERIOUSLY looking at how you plan on running it in. Not to open a can of worms here but you can thrash it or you can be gentle to run it in - 2 very opposing theories to achieve the same goal.. wierd huh.

i think it will need a "monthly meet road tuning and datalogging drive" in december.

Dylan: Thanks, it won't be on public roads for 6 months (except when I let others drive it), but I certainly look forward to driving it myself in 6 months!
Bionikal: I'll probably do it using the gentle dyno run-in method, according to what my mech said.
Surok: As as soon as it's fully tuned I'll be keen for someone to drive me to the monthly meets in my car.

There's a good reason for the running in 'paradox.' It's important to get pressure behind the rings to aid them bedding in to the bores quickly, but also to not load up the bearings excessively and risk galling on any high spots. High ring pressure is obtained with high throttle, low RPM conditions, and if this is not done soon after its first warm up the bores will glaze due to the heat of excessive blow-by gasses. Engine speed is a significant factor in bearing loads, accelerating and decelerating the pistons takes progressively higher forces at higher speeds, so it's also important to keep RPMs down during run-in. Varying speeds and not sitting at one speed for extended periods (including idle) ensures that oil splash is as random as possible and properly distributed to all splash fed parts.

Bottom line, short periods of high load, keep RPM under half redline, and vary speeds constantly.

When I did mine, the mech ran in the first 50kms for me to prevent glazing, as cogs said. After that he just recommended non-traffic driving high load, low RPM for another 100-200km and then after that, there's not real right way to do it.