Have you removed the factory 7 inch comparment fan ?
If so use the factory temp ECU.
Put the factory plug to your fan. This way when the engine bay gets hot it will turn on and then also get your Aftermarket ECU to send a signal to pin 8 on the temperature ECU so as to turn on at what ever parameter you want i.e coolant temp air temp etc.
One word of caution when chasing those numbers i hope you have a real way of detecting knock.
Also the MR2 SW20 HAS an old style knock sensor that the racing cars in Japan dont use.
They use a Wide band

Oh BTW they are Toyota units but its a bit secretive

quote:

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Originally posted by MANDALAY

Have you removed the factory 7 inch comparment fan ?
If so use the factory temp ECU.
Put the factory plug to your fan. This way when the engine bay gets hot it will turn on and then also get your Aftermarket ECU to send a signal to pin 8 on the temperature ECU so as yo turn on at what ever parameter you want i.e coolant temp air temp etc.
One word of caution when chasing those numbers i hope you have a real way of detecting knock.
The MR2 SW20 HAS an old style knock sensor that the racing cars in Japan dont use.
They use a Wide band

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Is the stock 'engine compartment fan' just the one on the stock A2A intercooler? If so, yes that's gone. I know nothing about the cooling fan ECU, but I may be able to do what you have described.

My Adaptronic e1280s ECU has very clever knock detection with closed-loop ignition timing to retard the timing when knock is detected. The ECU also has closed-loop adaptive lambda control.

The knock detection on the e1280s (still being developed right now) will have 'masking' to ignore anything that happens well before or well after TDC. It will also provide a separate knock count for each cylinder by considering the crank/cam angle throughout the 4 stroke cycle.

I think you'll prefer option B
since you'll be driving it in traffic often

but either will be OK.
Its not like it'll be some cantankerous mule like a carby-fuelled beast.


swapping in a phenolic spacer later on isn't a big deal.
I'd see how you go with T-VIS first
especially considering that you'll be running in the new motor
for a week or 2,I'm sure you'll find some free time available in a couple of months
to swap it if you think its what you want.

we sandblast all our alloy stuff here after we have left it sitting in a frends bath (to remove carbon etc) it comes out so well i wish i had bought a used caldina inlet manifold over the brand new item i have (Darrens came up like new besides one nick....)

clear coat or "alloy" look paint/2 pac looks fantastic/clean and is easy to maintain. Polished stuff etc is harder to maintain imo.

quote:

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Originally posted by 2hardtop

I think you'll prefer option B
since you'll be driving it in traffic often

but either will be OK.
Its not like it'll be some cantankerous mule like a carby-fuelled beast.

swapping in a phenolic spacer later on isn't a big deal.
I'd see how you go with T-VIS first
especially considering that you'll be running in the new motor
for a week or 2

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Thanks for the advice Greg.

quote:

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Originally posted by 2hardtop

I'm sure you'll find some free time available in a couple of months
to swap it if you think its what you want.

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I see what you did there haha, and I'm not gonna explain it on here right now [:P]


Regarding the cleaning of the intake plenum etc, I've been inspired by Mandalay and I think I'm going to get my intake plenum and the heat shield at the front of the engine bay ceramic coated! It's not cheap, but it's a small amount compared to everything else I've done on the car. It would look awesome along with the fully ceramic coated turbo too.

Polishing alloy is also very labour intensive in the prep to get a perfect finish. The motor we removed had a polished rocker cover, throttle trumpet and turbo hot pipe. It stayed at a high level of polish after 3 years or so of use.

Cheers

Well, if I go down the ceramic coated path, it will have a similar appearance to polishing, but I imagine it will be very durable.

I believe its very durable, plus it insulates, and looks awesome.

its a win win win!!

Just remember to mention my name Angelo at HPC :)
One point it works out even cheaper if you get all your bits together instead of sending him parts one at a time.
ASS REMEMBER THE NUTS AND BOLTS.
Intake is a good idea as your more likely to heat soak more than my engine because your plenum is aluminium and has no rubber isolater on the plenum.
The Beams has a rubber isolator to avoid heat soak and is made of steel