2017/06/01 01:02:41
robk
I just went for a short midnight drive to celebrate. I bloody love this car!
2017/06/01 06:33:45
Falcon
Congratulations Rob !!  I can understand the feeling.
They are lovely little cars. Mine has no power but it is delightful to drive.
Your monster must really put a grin on your dial.
2017/06/01 08:44:59
Shaz
robk
I just went for a short midnight drive to celebrate. I bloody love this car!


Just remember there is a long weekend coming up in a couple of weeks.  
2017/06/11 14:29:37
Matts_SW20
So glad you're back on the road! I was going to suggest a drive this weekend but DD's got me grounded :( Got a new tank of fuel in? chances are the old stuff might have lost a few octane levels just sitting in the tank for 6 months. 
2017/06/11 14:47:55
robk
Rain and double demerits means no driving the MR2 this weekend.
There is almost a full tank of 5-month-old 98 RON fuel in the car, which was put in there when Shaz drove me back from Wakefield in January. The car seems to be driving just fine anyway. I look forward to putting some more E85 in there when I next fill up!
2017/06/27 11:20:02
robk
Back in 2010 I replaced the 4 bulbs for back lighting in the dash cluster, with these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/199/#tab/Overview
Out of those 4 LEDs, 2 of them have been fine for 7 years, but 1 of them failed after only a few years, and 1 of them failed last week.
I didn't have another spare this time, so I bought a new set of 4 to ensure that they all match in brightness. 
I decided to try these instead, so I could get them locally:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/INTERIOR-LIGHT-LED-WHITE-T10-10-SCA/382403
They're quite expensive, but the brightness is very good (brighter than the ones I had from SuperBrightLeds before), and each one has 10 individual LEDs on it to ensure a wide spread of light in every direction. I even had to adjust the potentiometer on the custom dimmer circuit for my Omori boost gauge, to bring its brightness back up to a similar level to the rest of the dash gauges with the new LEDs. 
The only problem is that these LEDs are quite tall, so I was only able to install 2 of them (the ones behind the tachometer) without modifications. For the other 2 (behind the speedometer) I had to do some simple cutting of the wedge base plastic part, so they would sit further down in the holder, and not stick too far into the back of the dash and interfere with the back of the speedometer. 
Sorry I didn't get any photos. 
2017/07/06 15:25:47
robk
After an Old Pac run on Tuesday night, I started hearing a horrible noise which varies with engine speed. I started fearing the worst, but the car felt completely normal on the way home, apart from the noise.
When I got home I removed the alternator belt and AC belt and I discovered a relatively minor, but nonetheless very frustrating failure of this part (I have an older revision of it on my engine):
https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/toyota-3sgte-3sge-metal-jacket-harmonic-damper/
The outer metal pulley section for the AC belt only, had completely separated from the inner part of the unit. 
The damper/pulley had lasted ~7 years and copped a lot of abuse, but it's still annoying when the part cost me ~$600. 
Now I have to buy another one, and go through the hassle of removing and replacing it. At least the newer revisions of that part have a different design which should prevent the sort of failure I had, according to the owner of Ross Performance whom I talked to on the phone. 
 
Before I begin the task of removing the crank pulley, can anyone confirm whether or not I'll be able to remove it without lowering the engine at all (to clear the chassis rail)? Note that the aftermarket pulley has the same outer dimensions as the OEM one. 
If the answer is no, then how many engine/torque mounts need to be disconnected to allow the engine to drop sufficiently?
Remember that I only need to remove the crank pulley, I don't need access to the timing belt or anything like that. 
2017/07/06 15:33:29
IMR22C
From memory, you can't remove the pulley without dropping an engine mount.

You might be alright just removing the D/S mount. That's what I normally do, but my other engine mounts are in need of some Sikaflex so I likely get more movement out of them.
2017/07/06 15:41:28
robk
IMR22C
From memory, you can't remove the pulley without dropping an engine mount.
You might be alright just removing the D/S mount. That's what I normally do, but my other engine mounts are in need of some Sikaflex so I likely get more movement out of them.

Thanks for the info Bill!
My kirkosaurus torque mount inserts may limit the movement compared to yours, but I'll try the right side engine mount first and see what happens. 
2017/07/09 18:49:18
stuka
Never ends Rob. You must have crapped yourself when you first heard the noise!
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