Wow thats alot of toe out man. You must of been killing through in inside of your tyres.
I had a similar suspicion when i was going through tyres, especially the inside. And i had 6mm toe out on the front.
 
Got that fixed quick smart. 

I had the car back on MRC's dyno yesterday and the result was very positive once again!
The main reason for putting it back on the dyno was to verify the fuel pressure during power runs with the new fuel pressure regulator, and to adjust the AFRs accordingly.
As a nice bonus, because there was a bit more ethanol in the tank than last time (78% vs 60%) we achieved a slightly higher power figure, setting a new PB of 386rwkw.
There was some wheel spin again though, as indicated by the fact that the RPM steps along the bottom are each a bit different even though the wheel speed steps are all the same.
 

 
Now, back to the topic of the fuel pressure regulator. As I mentioned in previous posts, I had an early version of the Turbosmart FPR1200 for about 5 years, but after installing a fuel pressure sensor this year I found that the differential fuel pressure was dropping at high boost (in other words, the advertised 1:1 ratio wasn't being maintained properly at high boost). The original tune would've simply had higher values in the maps to account for the inaccurate fuel pressure regulation. When I first discovered the fuel pressure drop I assumed that my fuel pump was running out of flow and I reluctantly considered upgrading the fuel pump setup, but luckily I was advised that the newer 'version 2' of the FPR1200 (ie. FPR1200v2) was released to fix this problem, therefore I installed an FPR1200v2 earlier this year. On the dyno yesterday I finally confirmed that the new fuel pressure regulator did fix the problem, so my fuel pump has more than enough flow after all.

844NM! Holy freight train! That's awesome man.

Yay! I posted on page 100!
 

epic numbers Rob! good tip about the wheelspin, had wondered why the increments are different

Now onto a different topic. 
 
I've had KW V3 coilovers on my car for about 5 years. They have independently adjustable compression damping and rebound damping, but all along I've been running the damper settings that are recommended by KW. The recommended settings seem to work very well at the track, and they're tolerable on the street, which is why I left the settings as-is. However, a few months ago my work office moved to a different location which means that my drive to work now involves a lot more speed bumps and rough roads. This has motivated me to learn more about damper settings and to start making some adjustments. 
 
Well, last night I adjusted the rebound damping to almost full soft (only 2 clicks away from minimum rebound damping), and left the compression damping unchanged from the recommended settings, then I drove the MR2 to work today just to see what happens. It turns out that it made a surprisingly big difference to ride comfort! On speed bumps in particular, I always assumed that the harshness was due to too much compression damping preventing the bump from being absorbed, but it turns out that the harshness was mostly due to the car 'falling' off speed bumps because the rebound damping was preventing the suspension from extending as quick as required. The ride comfort on dips and pot holes is improved for similar reasons. 
 
Next I'll try reducing the compression damping to see if it makes a noticeable difference to comfort, but I think it will be much less noticeable than the rebound adjustment. I'll probably end up settling on compression damping just a bit softer than the recommended settings and rebound damping much softer than the recommended settings, but I still need to do more driving on different types of road surfaces at different speeds, and with more spirited driving through corners, to see how soft the damping can be without having too much of a negative impact on handling. 
 
At the track I'll continue to use the recommended settings for both rebound and compression, or maybe a few clicks harder. The rebound adjustment can be done very easily on top of the struts, and even the compression adjustment can be done without removing the wheels or jacking up the car (if you lie down on the ground and reach your arm around the wheel to the bottom of the strut you should just be able to reach it). 
 
I'll update again after I decide on some final damper settings. 

robk
Now onto a different topic. 
 
 This has motivated me to learn more... 
 

 
I think you're the sort of person who curses Albert for being born earlier and having a headstart in line to describe the theory of relativity. 

I tried reducing the compression damping last night too, with the rebound still very soft, so I could feel the softest possible damper settings. 
The reduced compression damping did improve the comfort level even more, but not as much as the rebound did. However, with the rebound and compression both only a few clicks away from their minimum damping, the car definitely feels a bit too soft and imprecise (as expected), but on the other hand it still feels completely safe for normal driving which is good to know. 
After trying the softest settings, I then made some more adjustments between there and the recommended settings, then I went for a long drive and tested it out on lots of different roads. 
 
Here is some info about the KW V3 damping adjustment:
Full clockwise is maximum/hardest damping. Adjustments are made by going full clockwise then backing off a certain number of clicks in the counter-clockwise direction. 
The rebound damping has an adjustment range of 18 clicks and the compression damping has an adjustment range of about 14 clicks. 
When counting the clicks, you need to turn the adjusting knob to full clockwise past the last click until it can't go any further, then back it off to the last click. You should NOT count this click. It is the starting point from which all subsequent clicks should be counted in the counter-clockwise direction. 
 
The factory recommended settings from KW are:
Front rebound: 9 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Rear rebound: 9 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Front compression: 9 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Rear compression: 5 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.

I ended up with these final settings which I will use on the street from now on:
Front rebound: 14 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Rear rebound: 14 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Front compression: 11 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
Rear compression: 8 clicks counter-clockwise from full hard.
 
My damper settings for the street are quite comfortable now, even on things like speed bumps and expansion joints which are very harsh with the factory recommended settings. The handling is still very good with my street settings, maybe even better in most cases because most street surfaces aren't great so if the damper settings are too hard then the car will easily lose traction on imperfections in the road. 
 
You may notice that the difference in compression damping is much less than the difference in rebound damping (when comparing the factory recommended settings to my street settings), so it's not critical to change the compression damping from the factory recommended settings in terms of comfort. The car can be made to feel comfortable on the street by softening the rebound damping only. 

This is great info! I have been meaning to adjust my KW's for a while now and this has inspired me to just do it :)
 
Are you running your KW's with standard mounts, or have your paired them with some adjustable/pillowball mounts?

Steve_A
This is great info! I have been meaning to adjust my KW's for a while now and this has inspired me to just do it

Good to hear! That's why I went into excessive detail haha.

Steve_A
Are you running your KW's with standard mounts, or have your paired them with some adjustable/pillowball mounts?

I have Cusco adjustable camber tops at the front.